OOHaTa cpeaa

Míoro KaTepaHH tbúpaht, ne eäHa ot npHHHHHTe äa ce KaTepHT e nroôoBTa hm kúm npHpoäaxa h ToBa, ne no to3h HanHH HMaT bú3mo®hoct äa "roÓHraT ot rpaäa" Tpaôâa oôane äa ce 3Hae, ne caMoTo HH npHCúCTBHe epeä npHpoäaxa, BëHHe Búpxy oêoëHaTa epeäa. Komoxo noBene CTaBaT KaTepanrne, ToëKoBa no-roneMH ea Te3H npoMeHH.

B MHoro pañoHH Ha CBeTa cboóoahhht äoexbn äo KaTepanHHxe oSeKTH ctoh noä Búnpoe. CoöcTBeHHUHxe Ha çeMHTa h ynpaBHTenrne Ha paçnrnHH npnpoäHH napKoBe çanonBaT äa ce TpeBoœax ot yBenrnaBaHexo SpoH Ha KaTepannxe; äocTaTtHHo e caMo eäHH äa xBúpnH SoKnyK hth äa HaBpeäH e Heùo Ha oêoëHaTa epeäa h bcmkh KaTepanH ÖHBaT HaponeHH ça SeçoTroBopHH eroHCTH.

ETO HaKOH npaBHëa:

*OcTaBHHxe KaTepaHHHH pañoH b ciùhh BHä (äopH b no-äoötp), b KaKúBxo CTe ro çaBapHëH.

*naçeTe aBTeHTmHHH BHä Ha CKanaTa, kohkoto e bú3mo®ho - He h nyneTe, He neneTe oTäerHH KaMúHH, ça äa ch npaBHxe H3KycTBeHH xBaTKH, He h äynneTe h He enarañxe H3ëH0HH ôonxoBe.

*npH noäxoäa h BpùùaHeTo ot TypoBeTe ce äBH^eTe caMo no onpeäereHHTe ça xoBa núTeKH.

*OcBeäoMHBafixe ce ça npaBHnaxa, kohxo äeHCTBaT b äaäeH pañoH, h rH ena3Bañxe - HanpHMep çaôpaHHxe, CBùpçaHH e SeçnoKoeHeTo Ha rHe3AflùH nxHUH, onaçBaHeTo Ha peäKH BHäoBe pacTeHHH, HeH3non3BaHexo Ha Somme h äp.

*CBeäeTe ynoxpeSaxa Ha MarHe3Hñ äo mhhhmóm, ça äa He uanaTe CKanaxa; onHxañxe äa HaMepHxe MarHe3Hñ e uBeTa Ha CKanaTa.

*npH KaMnHpaHe ee CTapañxe äa ocTaBHTe kohkoto ce Moœe no-ManKo ereäH ot äeräoexxa ch -H3non3Bañxe raçoBH npHMycH BMecTo orúH; 3apaBHñxe eKCKpeMeHXHxe ch; He ee MHñxe b m&tkh

noxouH h eçepa; b no-roneMH-Te H3non3Bañxe HanúnHo pa3rpaäH-MH eanyHH.

*H3HacHHxe ch bcMkhh SoKnyK, BKnroHHTenHo ôaeoBeTe h KHÔpHTeHHXe KëeHKH.

*He nycKañxe chtho MyçHKa h He H3non3BaÖTe HenpHëMHH äyMH b npHCúCTBHeTo Ha äpyrH KaTepanH -MHoro xopa ea äomnH epeä npnpo-äaTa, 3a äa ee HacnaäHT Ha THmHHa-Ta h enoKoñcTBHeTo.

Bèe CTe oTroBopHH ça ona3Ba-HeTo Ha oKonHaTa epeäa h ça ToBa, KaTepaHHHxe pañoHH äa ocTaHax oTBopeHH.

KaK a a H3no^3BaMe núTeBO^HTe^H ("rHflOBHHUH")?

KoraTO 3anoHHeTe ^a TúpcHTe pañoHH, b kohto ^a ce KarepHTe, ^e nona^HeTe Ha MHoro núTeBO^HTenH 3a Mapmpymre - rMAoBHMUH. floSprne rH^oBHHUH MoraT ^a Sú^ar CTpamHo none3HM. nomme - caMo ^a bh 3arpyAHHT. floSprne núTeBo^HTem oSHKHoBeHo ca ^ocTúnHo HanncaHM h cú^úp^aT caMo Hañ-Ba^HHTe cBe^eHHH - Karo HMe Ha Typa, KareropHHTa My Ha ipy^HocT, parara Ha núpBoTo H3KanBaHe, HMeHaTa Ha mpBonoKopmenHTe h ocHoBHa HH^opMauna 3a cTeneHTa Ha ocmypABaHe, K^ronoBHTe naca^H, oS^a Atn^HHa, Spoñ Ha Bú^eTara h hhkoh ocoSeHH 3aSene®KH KaTo HanpHMep "na3eTe ce ot oTpoBHaTa maHa Ha TpeTo Bú^e"!

HayneTe ^oSpe cHMBonrne, kohto ce H3non3Bar b cxeMHTe Ha MapmpyTHTe.

Rock climbing grading systems

UIAA

FRANCE

USA

ÑHcTeMH 3a KaTepaHHat-TpyAHocT'; í ií,'. ¡ ■„•. (TECHNICAL) (SEVERITY) SA / NZ

GERMANY

1

1

5.2

Moderate

9

I

II

2

5.3

Difficult

10

II

III

3

5.4

Very Difficult

11

III

IV

4

5.5

4a

Severe (S)

12

IV

V-

13

V

V

5.6

4b

Very Severe

14

VI

v+

5

5.7

4c

15

Vila

VI

5.8

5a

Hard VS.

16/17

VI lb

VI

6a

5.9

El

18

VI+

6a+

5.10a/b

5b

19

Vflc

VII-

6b

5.1 Oc/d

E2

20

Villa

VII

6b+

5.11a

5c

21

VI lib

VI1+

6c

5.11b

E3

22

VII Ic

VIII-

6c+

5.11c

6a

23

IXa

VIII

7a/7a+

5.11c

E4

25

IX b

Vll!+

7b

5.12a/b

6b

26

IXc

IX-

7b+/7c

5.12c

E5

27

Xa

IX

7c+

5.12d

28

Xb

IX+

8a

5.13a

6c

29

Xc

X-

8a+

5.13b

£6

30

X

8b

5.13c/d

7a

31

x+

8b+

5.14a

E7

32

xt-

8c

5.14b

7b

33

XI

8c+

5.14c

7c

E8/9

34

XI+

9a

5.14d

8a

E9

35/36

UIAA / ^peHcKa / aMepHKaHcKa (HoceMHTH) / SpHTaHcKa (TexHrnecKa tpóahoct) / SpHTaHcKa

(o6^a tpyahoct) / aBCTpannHCKa / repMaHCKa (3a nactHHHUHTe B CaKCOHna)

3a6ene:»Ka: Bchhkh CKann 3a Tpy^HOCT ca oTBopeHn - noKa3aHnTe no-rope cncTeMn oTpa3ABaT Haft-BHCOKHTe nocTHxeHHa ^o to3h eTan. CpaBHABaHero Ha Tpy^HoCTTa Ha #Ba ctce^HH Typa He e neKa 3a^ana, ^a He roBopnM 3a CpaBHHBaHeTO Ha CHCTeMHTe, H3nOH3BaHH B pa3^HHHH CTpaHH HHH npn pa3^HHHH CTHHOBe Ha KaTepeHe. B Ta3M Ta6n^a ca noKa3aHn CTeneHnTe Ha Tpy^HoCT caMo npn CKamo KaTepeHe. 06^o B3eTo, npn cnopTHnTe Mapmpym ce ronojoBa ^peHCKaTa cncTeMa, ^pyrnTe ca 3a Tpa,^H^HOHHHTe Mapmpyra, BtnpeKH He TOBa He e 3a^tnxHTenHo npaBnno. npe^n ^a TptraeTe no hskoh Typ, ocBe^oMeTe ce ^ann e HanMHo eKHnnpaH nnn Tpa6Ba ^a HocnTe n co6cTBeHa ocnrypoBKa.

UIAA / ^peHcKa / aMepHKaHcKa (HoceMHTH) / SpHTaHcKa (TexHrnecKa tpóahoct) / SpHTaHcKa

(o6^a tpyahoct) / aBCTpannHCKa / repMaHCKa (3a nactHHHUHTe B CaKCOHna)

3a6ene:»Ka: Bchhkh CKann 3a Tpy^HOCT ca oTBopeHn - noKa3aHnTe no-rope cncTeMn oTpa3ABaT Haft-BHCOKHTe nocTHxeHHa ^o to3h eTan. CpaBHABaHero Ha Tpy^HoCTTa Ha #Ba ctce^HH Typa He e neKa 3a^ana, ^a He roBopnM 3a CpaBHHBaHeTO Ha CHCTeMHTe, H3nOH3BaHH B pa3^HHHH CTpaHH HHH npn pa3^HHHH CTHHOBe Ha KaTepeHe. B Ta3M Ta6n^a ca noKa3aHn CTeneHnTe Ha Tpy^HoCT caMo npn CKamo KaTepeHe. 06^o B3eTo, npn cnopTHnTe Mapmpym ce ronojoBa ^peHCKaTa cncTeMa, ^pyrnTe ca 3a Tpa,^H^HOHHHTe Mapmpyra, BtnpeKH He TOBa He e 3a^tnxHTenHo npaBnno. npe^n ^a TptraeTe no hskoh Typ, ocBe^oMeTe ce ^ann e HanMHo eKHnnpaH nnn Tpa6Ba ^a HocnTe n co6cTBeHa ocnrypoBKa.

Eoëflûp KaTepeHe

OoHTeH5no, 5nH3O äo ÏapHœ, ce cMara ça Me-ara Ha cúBpeMeHHOTO 5onätp -arepeHe. CieneHHTe Ha TpyäHocT o5HKHOBeHO ce onpeäenaT no öpeHc-ara c-ana "ÔOHreH5no" h ca b HHTepBan ot 6a äo 9a; aMepHKaHc-ara c-ana "BepMHH" HMa cieneHH ot V1 äo V14

HçKycTBeHo KaTepeHe

TpyäHocrra np, H3KycTBeHO -arepeHe ce onpeäena ot A0 ("Ha5HpaHe" Ha npHM-a) äo AS (MHoro onacHO H3KycTBeHO -arepeHe c bú3mo®hoct ça cepHO3HO naäaHe).

AënHHCKH CHCTeMH

AnnHHcKHTe TypoBe MoraT ce KareropH3Hpar cnopeä uanocTHara hm TpyäHocT. HeMc-ara cHcieMa äaBa cieneHH ot I äo VI (noäo5Ha -areroproauHa Moœe äa ce cpeùne Ha hhkoh ciap, o5eKTH b BúnrapHa - MtrnHœ, PaH h äp. - B. np.); öpeHc-ara HMa cneäHHTe cieneHH: F - facile (necío); PD - peu difficile (íe MHoro TpyäHO, HT); AD - assez difficile (yMepeHO TpyäHO, ÓT); D -difficile (TpyäHO, T); TD - tres difficile (MHoro TpyäHO, MT); ED - extremement difficile (H3KnronHTenHO TpyäHO, HT) h ABO - abominable (yœacHo), -oeTO e äo5aBeHO 3a cBptxipyäHH MapmpyTH. Te3H cieneHH äaBaT o5ùaia TpyäHocT Ha Mapmpyia h He ätp^ar cMeT-a 3a HaM-cnoœHHa nacaœ.

ÑMeCeHH MapmpyTH

TypoBe, KOHTO BKnK>nBar hhcto c-anHO -arepeHe, H3-ycTBeHO -arepeHe, neäeHO -arepeHe h äpyrH TpyäHO cth ot pa3nHneH xapa—rep, cera ce oueHaBar no KOM5HHHpaHa cHcieMa. H Ta-a, "BaänaHäc", TpyäeH 1S00-MeipoB MapmpyT Ha Tope Erep b nararoHHa ce onpeäena -aro VI, S.10, A3, WI 4+. Ty- VI e annräcKara (o5ùaia) TpyäHocT; S.10 e HaH-rpyäHHaT c-aneH nacaœ no aMepH-aHc-aTa (ÉoceMHTH) cHcieMa (neceH, a-o ro cpaBHHM c S.14 Ha "yroTHHTe" Cmhtc Pokc HanpHMep, ho ry- rpa5Ba äa HMaMe npeäBHä BHconHHara h 5nH3Kara äo Ton-ara Ha 3aMpú3BaHe TeMneparypa!); A3 e 3a HaH-TpyäHHaT nacaœ Ha H3KycTBeHO -arepeHe; a WI 4+ O3HanaBa Water Ice 4+ - TpyäHocT ot c-anara 3a neäeHO -arepeHe. ÊOM5HHauHaTa ot bchhkh Te3H cieneHH HäBa äa no-aœe, ne to3h MapmpyT Tpa5âa äa ce B3eMa "mho-o, aMa MHoro Ha cepHO3Ho"!

TO ». THUMB is (6c b¡]¡) i Mm J. TREBOUT, F. PITET VMS

CieneHH Ha TpyäHO A0 - nacaœ Ha eHO KaTepeHe 6+ - cieneHH

GRADED IF YOU

HcTeMa

PROTECTION

OF DIFFICULTY

10min

PITON IM SITU

PITON IM SITU

nepBaç

K.THH

fttttttn leoüe

TO ». THUMB is (6c b¡]¡) i Mm J. TREBOUT, F. PITET VMS

CieneHH Ha TpyäHO A0 - nacaœ Ha ahkepeh 5ont h^h cïht V" expansion BOLT

ROOF

TaBaH

neneH k^hh

SLING IN SITU

eHO KaTepeHe 6+ - cieneHH

GRADED IF YOU

HcTeMa

PROTECTION

WALKEN ROUTE

CíUli^ OVERHANG

HaäBec

nnonH

OF DIFFICULTY

npemhhabahe ot mpyrmsp51®^16 J(

CRACK

uen-a, uenHarHHa

KaMHHa n

TonKH ça panen

RAPPEL POINTS

OPEN-BOOK CORNER

BHHKen

USUAL BELAY STANCE

S INGLE-FACE DIEDRE BHHKen nacaœ, ^ H3HcKBaù ■ co5cTBeHa oc

10min ocHrypoBKa

Äo5pHTe rHäOBHHUH necio HMaT cxeMH Ha rypoBeie. CíHMKHTe c onepiaHH Búpxy Tax MapmpyTH o5HKHOBeHO ca Hañ-none3HH. Xy5aBHre cxeMH cúúo Btpmar äo5pa pa5oTa, a-o noBe-3Hae ocHOBHHTe O3HaneHHa h chmbohh.

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