OOHaTa cpeaa
Míoro KaTepaHH tbúpaht, ne eäHa ot npHHHHHTe äa ce KaTepHT e nroôoBTa hm kúm npHpoäaxa h ToBa, ne no to3h HanHH HMaT bú3mo®hoct äa "roÓHraT ot rpaäa" Tpaôâa oôane äa ce 3Hae, ne caMoTo HH npHCúCTBHe epeä npHpoäaxa, BëHHe Búpxy oêoëHaTa epeäa. Komoxo noBene CTaBaT KaTepanrne, ToëKoBa no-roneMH ea Te3H npoMeHH.
B MHoro pañoHH Ha CBeTa cboóoahhht äoexbn äo KaTepanHHxe oSeKTH ctoh noä Búnpoe. CoöcTBeHHUHxe Ha çeMHTa h ynpaBHTenrne Ha paçnrnHH npnpoäHH napKoBe çanonBaT äa ce TpeBoœax ot yBenrnaBaHexo SpoH Ha KaTepannxe; äocTaTtHHo e caMo eäHH äa xBúpnH SoKnyK hth äa HaBpeäH e Heùo Ha oêoëHaTa epeäa h bcmkh KaTepanH ÖHBaT HaponeHH ça SeçoTroBopHH eroHCTH.
ETO HaKOH npaBHëa:
*OcTaBHHxe KaTepaHHHH pañoH b ciùhh BHä (äopH b no-äoötp), b KaKúBxo CTe ro çaBapHëH.
*naçeTe aBTeHTmHHH BHä Ha CKanaTa, kohkoto e bú3mo®ho - He h nyneTe, He neneTe oTäerHH KaMúHH, ça äa ch npaBHxe H3KycTBeHH xBaTKH, He h äynneTe h He enarañxe H3ëH0HH ôonxoBe.
*npH noäxoäa h BpùùaHeTo ot TypoBeTe ce äBH^eTe caMo no onpeäereHHTe ça xoBa núTeKH.
*OcBeäoMHBafixe ce ça npaBHnaxa, kohxo äeHCTBaT b äaäeH pañoH, h rH ena3Bañxe - HanpHMep çaôpaHHxe, CBùpçaHH e SeçnoKoeHeTo Ha rHe3AflùH nxHUH, onaçBaHeTo Ha peäKH BHäoBe pacTeHHH, HeH3non3BaHexo Ha Somme h äp.
*CBeäeTe ynoxpeSaxa Ha MarHe3Hñ äo mhhhmóm, ça äa He uanaTe CKanaxa; onHxañxe äa HaMepHxe MarHe3Hñ e uBeTa Ha CKanaTa.
*npH KaMnHpaHe ee CTapañxe äa ocTaBHTe kohkoto ce Moœe no-ManKo ereäH ot äeräoexxa ch -H3non3Bañxe raçoBH npHMycH BMecTo orúH; 3apaBHñxe eKCKpeMeHXHxe ch; He ee MHñxe b m&tkh
noxouH h eçepa; b no-roneMH-Te H3non3Bañxe HanúnHo pa3rpaäH-MH eanyHH.
*H3HacHHxe ch bcMkhh SoKnyK, BKnroHHTenHo ôaeoBeTe h KHÔpHTeHHXe KëeHKH.
*He nycKañxe chtho MyçHKa h He H3non3BaÖTe HenpHëMHH äyMH b npHCúCTBHeTo Ha äpyrH KaTepanH -MHoro xopa ea äomnH epeä npnpo-äaTa, 3a äa ee HacnaäHT Ha THmHHa-Ta h enoKoñcTBHeTo.
Bèe CTe oTroBopHH ça ona3Ba-HeTo Ha oKonHaTa epeäa h ça ToBa, KaTepaHHHxe pañoHH äa ocTaHax oTBopeHH.
KaK a a H3no^3BaMe núTeBO^HTe^H ("rHflOBHHUH")?
KoraTO 3anoHHeTe ^a TúpcHTe pañoHH, b kohto ^a ce KarepHTe, ^e nona^HeTe Ha MHoro núTeBO^HTenH 3a Mapmpymre - rMAoBHMUH. floSprne rH^oBHHUH MoraT ^a Sú^ar CTpamHo none3HM. nomme - caMo ^a bh 3arpyAHHT. floSprne núTeBo^HTem oSHKHoBeHo ca ^ocTúnHo HanncaHM h cú^úp^aT caMo Hañ-Ba^HHTe cBe^eHHH - Karo HMe Ha Typa, KareropHHTa My Ha ipy^HocT, parara Ha núpBoTo H3KanBaHe, HMeHaTa Ha mpBonoKopmenHTe h ocHoBHa HH^opMauna 3a cTeneHTa Ha ocmypABaHe, K^ronoBHTe naca^H, oS^a Atn^HHa, Spoñ Ha Bú^eTara h hhkoh ocoSeHH 3aSene®KH KaTo HanpHMep "na3eTe ce ot oTpoBHaTa maHa Ha TpeTo Bú^e"!
HayneTe ^oSpe cHMBonrne, kohto ce H3non3Bar b cxeMHTe Ha MapmpyTHTe.
|
UIAA |
FRANCE |
USA |
ÑHcTeMH 3a KaTepaHHat-TpyAHocT'; í ií,'. ¡ ■„•. (TECHNICAL) (SEVERITY) SA / NZ |
GERMANY | ||
|
1 |
1 |
5.2 |
Moderate |
9 |
I | |
|
II |
2 |
5.3 |
Difficult |
10 |
II | |
|
III |
3 |
5.4 |
Very Difficult |
11 |
III | |
|
IV |
4 |
5.5 |
4a |
Severe (S) |
12 |
IV |
|
V- |
13 |
V | ||||
|
V |
5.6 |
4b |
Very Severe |
14 |
VI | |
|
v+ |
5 |
5.7 |
4c |
15 |
Vila | |
|
VI |
5.8 |
5a |
Hard VS. |
16/17 |
VI lb | |
|
VI |
6a |
5.9 |
El |
18 | ||
|
VI+ |
6a+ |
5.10a/b |
5b |
19 |
Vflc | |
|
VII- |
6b |
5.1 Oc/d |
E2 |
20 |
Villa | |
|
VII |
6b+ |
5.11a |
5c |
21 |
VI lib | |
|
VI1+ |
6c |
5.11b |
E3 |
22 |
VII Ic | |
|
VIII- |
6c+ |
5.11c |
6a |
23 |
IXa | |
|
VIII |
7a/7a+ |
5.11c |
E4 |
25 |
IX b | |
|
Vll!+ |
7b |
5.12a/b |
6b |
26 |
IXc | |
|
IX- |
7b+/7c |
5.12c |
E5 |
27 |
Xa | |
|
IX |
7c+ |
5.12d |
28 |
Xb | ||
|
IX+ |
8a |
5.13a |
6c |
29 |
Xc | |
|
X- |
8a+ |
5.13b |
£6 |
30 | ||
|
X |
8b |
5.13c/d |
7a |
31 | ||
|
x+ |
8b+ |
5.14a |
E7 |
32 | ||
|
xt- |
8c |
5.14b |
7b |
33 | ||
|
XI |
8c+ |
5.14c |
7c |
E8/9 |
34 | |
|
XI+ |
9a |
5.14d |
8a |
E9 |
35/36 | |
UIAA / ^peHcKa / aMepHKaHcKa (HoceMHTH) / SpHTaHcKa (TexHrnecKa tpóahoct) / SpHTaHcKa
(o6^a tpyahoct) / aBCTpannHCKa / repMaHCKa (3a nactHHHUHTe B CaKCOHna)
3a6ene:»Ka: Bchhkh CKann 3a Tpy^HOCT ca oTBopeHn - noKa3aHnTe no-rope cncTeMn oTpa3ABaT Haft-BHCOKHTe nocTHxeHHa ^o to3h eTan. CpaBHABaHero Ha Tpy^HoCTTa Ha #Ba ctce^HH Typa He e neKa 3a^ana, ^a He roBopnM 3a CpaBHHBaHeTO Ha CHCTeMHTe, H3nOH3BaHH B pa3^HHHH CTpaHH HHH npn pa3^HHHH CTHHOBe Ha KaTepeHe. B Ta3M Ta6n^a ca noKa3aHn CTeneHnTe Ha Tpy^HoCT caMo npn CKamo KaTepeHe. 06^o B3eTo, npn cnopTHnTe Mapmpym ce ronojoBa ^peHCKaTa cncTeMa, ^pyrnTe ca 3a Tpa,^H^HOHHHTe Mapmpyra, BtnpeKH He TOBa He e 3a^tnxHTenHo npaBnno. npe^n ^a TptraeTe no hskoh Typ, ocBe^oMeTe ce ^ann e HanMHo eKHnnpaH nnn Tpa6Ba ^a HocnTe n co6cTBeHa ocnrypoBKa.
UIAA / ^peHcKa / aMepHKaHcKa (HoceMHTH) / SpHTaHcKa (TexHrnecKa tpóahoct) / SpHTaHcKa
(o6^a tpyahoct) / aBCTpannHCKa / repMaHCKa (3a nactHHHUHTe B CaKCOHna)
3a6ene:»Ka: Bchhkh CKann 3a Tpy^HOCT ca oTBopeHn - noKa3aHnTe no-rope cncTeMn oTpa3ABaT Haft-BHCOKHTe nocTHxeHHa ^o to3h eTan. CpaBHABaHero Ha Tpy^HoCTTa Ha #Ba ctce^HH Typa He e neKa 3a^ana, ^a He roBopnM 3a CpaBHHBaHeTO Ha CHCTeMHTe, H3nOH3BaHH B pa3^HHHH CTpaHH HHH npn pa3^HHHH CTHHOBe Ha KaTepeHe. B Ta3M Ta6n^a ca noKa3aHn CTeneHnTe Ha Tpy^HoCT caMo npn CKamo KaTepeHe. 06^o B3eTo, npn cnopTHnTe Mapmpym ce ronojoBa ^peHCKaTa cncTeMa, ^pyrnTe ca 3a Tpa,^H^HOHHHTe Mapmpyra, BtnpeKH He TOBa He e 3a^tnxHTenHo npaBnno. npe^n ^a TptraeTe no hskoh Typ, ocBe^oMeTe ce ^ann e HanMHo eKHnnpaH nnn Tpa6Ba ^a HocnTe n co6cTBeHa ocnrypoBKa.
Eoëflûp KaTepeHe
OoHTeH5no, 5nH3O äo ÏapHœ, ce cMara ça Me-ara Ha cúBpeMeHHOTO 5onätp -arepeHe. CieneHHTe Ha TpyäHocT o5HKHOBeHO ce onpeäenaT no öpeHc-ara c-ana "ÔOHreH5no" h ca b HHTepBan ot 6a äo 9a; aMepHKaHc-ara c-ana "BepMHH" HMa cieneHH ot V1 äo V14
HçKycTBeHo KaTepeHe
TpyäHocrra np, H3KycTBeHO -arepeHe ce onpeäena ot A0 ("Ha5HpaHe" Ha npHM-a) äo AS (MHoro onacHO H3KycTBeHO -arepeHe c bú3mo®hoct ça cepHO3HO naäaHe).
AënHHCKH CHCTeMH
AnnHHcKHTe TypoBe MoraT ce KareropH3Hpar cnopeä uanocTHara hm TpyäHocT. HeMc-ara cHcieMa äaBa cieneHH ot I äo VI (noäo5Ha -areroproauHa Moœe äa ce cpeùne Ha hhkoh ciap, o5eKTH b BúnrapHa - MtrnHœ, PaH h äp. - B. np.); öpeHc-ara HMa cneäHHTe cieneHH: F - facile (necío); PD - peu difficile (íe MHoro TpyäHO, HT); AD - assez difficile (yMepeHO TpyäHO, ÓT); D -difficile (TpyäHO, T); TD - tres difficile (MHoro TpyäHO, MT); ED - extremement difficile (H3KnronHTenHO TpyäHO, HT) h ABO - abominable (yœacHo), -oeTO e äo5aBeHO 3a cBptxipyäHH MapmpyTH. Te3H cieneHH äaBaT o5ùaia TpyäHocT Ha Mapmpyia h He ätp^ar cMeT-a 3a HaM-cnoœHHa nacaœ.
ÑMeCeHH MapmpyTH
TypoBe, KOHTO BKnK>nBar hhcto c-anHO -arepeHe, H3-ycTBeHO -arepeHe, neäeHO -arepeHe h äpyrH TpyäHO cth ot pa3nHneH xapa—rep, cera ce oueHaBar no KOM5HHHpaHa cHcieMa. H Ta-a, "BaänaHäc", TpyäeH 1S00-MeipoB MapmpyT Ha Tope Erep b nararoHHa ce onpeäena -aro VI, S.10, A3, WI 4+. Ty- VI e annräcKara (o5ùaia) TpyäHocT; S.10 e HaH-rpyäHHaT c-aneH nacaœ no aMepH-aHc-aTa (ÉoceMHTH) cHcieMa (neceH, a-o ro cpaBHHM c S.14 Ha "yroTHHTe" Cmhtc Pokc HanpHMep, ho ry- rpa5Ba äa HMaMe npeäBHä BHconHHara h 5nH3Kara äo Ton-ara Ha 3aMpú3BaHe TeMneparypa!); A3 e 3a HaH-TpyäHHaT nacaœ Ha H3KycTBeHO -arepeHe; a WI 4+ O3HanaBa Water Ice 4+ - TpyäHocT ot c-anara 3a neäeHO -arepeHe. ÊOM5HHauHaTa ot bchhkh Te3H cieneHH HäBa äa no-aœe, ne to3h MapmpyT Tpa5âa äa ce B3eMa "mho-o, aMa MHoro Ha cepHO3Ho"!
TO ». THUMB is (6c b¡]¡) i Mm J. TREBOUT, F. PITET VMS
CieneHH Ha TpyäHO A0 - nacaœ Ha eHO KaTepeHe 6+ - cieneHH
GRADED IF YOU
HcTeMa
PROTECTION
OF DIFFICULTY
10min
PITON IM SITU
PITON IM SITU
nepBaç
K.THH
fttttttn leoüe
TO ». THUMB is (6c b¡]¡) i Mm J. TREBOUT, F. PITET VMS
CieneHH Ha TpyäHO A0 - nacaœ Ha ahkepeh 5ont h^h cïht V" expansion BOLT
ROOF
TaBaH
neneH k^hh
SLING IN SITU
eHO KaTepeHe 6+ - cieneHH
GRADED IF YOU
HcTeMa
PROTECTION
WALKEN ROUTE
CíUli^ OVERHANG
HaäBec
nnonH
OF DIFFICULTY
npemhhabahe ot mpyrmsp51®^16 J(
CRACK
uen-a, uenHarHHa
KaMHHa n
TonKH ça panen
RAPPEL POINTS
OPEN-BOOK CORNER
BHHKen
USUAL BELAY STANCE
S INGLE-FACE DIEDRE BHHKen nacaœ, ^ H3HcKBaù ■ co5cTBeHa oc
10min ocHrypoBKa
Äo5pHTe rHäOBHHUH necio HMaT cxeMH Ha rypoBeie. CíHMKHTe c onepiaHH Búpxy Tax MapmpyTH o5HKHOBeHO ca Hañ-none3HH. Xy5aBHre cxeMH cúúo Btpmar äo5pa pa5oTa, a-o noBe-3Hae ocHOBHHTe O3HaneHHa h chmbohh.
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