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1

Risks

2

2

Clubs

3

3

Young Climbers

3

4

The Environment

4

5

History and Ethics

6

6

Grades

7

7

Bouldering

9

8

Leading Indoors

11

9

Sport Climbing

11

10

Traditional Climbing . . .

12

11

Abseiling

25

Cover photo: Clipping a camming device, Stanage Photo - Alex Messenger

Acknowledgements

Produced by Jon Garside BMC/MLTE Training Officer with support from members of the Training Advisory Group. Funded by Sport England

A number of people were very generous in contributing to this booklet: British Mountain Guide Steve Long gave us free access to the text in his First Moves series, the Bouldering section was adapted from Simon Panton's North Wales Bouldering guide (Northern Soul, 2004), and Barbara Jones contributed to the conservation issues in that section.

A number of diagrams have been taken from MLTUK's book Rock Climbing - Essential Skills & Techniques by British Mountain Guide Libby Peter.

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To purchase a copy now please contact the BMC on 0870 010 4878.

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Remote adventurous climbing, Scafell Photo - Jon Garside

Many wall users wanting to climb on real rock would like to develop their existing skills. If that sounds like you, then read on

Britain is often referred to as the home of adventure climbing, and renowned for the incredible variety of rock types available on such a small island.

Our cliffs may not be the tallest, but they present many new challenges not experienced indoors, forcing the climber to adopt very different climbing styles. Slabs require a very balanced approach; cracks require jamming with fingers, hands, fists or even arms; steep overhanging cliffs can be very energy sapping but with good footwork and inventive body positions a lot of weight is taken off the arms. Different rock types present different hazards: cliffs are being continually eroded by the elements and some rock types are 'more stable' than others. This can present a real danger of experiencing loose rock or even snapping holds, so helmets are a very worthwhile investment.

Britain is a world-class venue for sea-cliff climbing, but just getting to the bottom of a route may involve an abseil or tide dependent approach. Our mountains have many soaring cliffs, but a change in the weather can present real difficulties to the unprepared. With this variety comes venues that are very novice friendly, perfect for learning new skills before venturing into more challenging arenas.

Our cliffs are a finite resource and the BMC is heavily involved in securing access to them for climbers and mountaineers. You need to be aware of seasonal or permanent restrictions that are in place to protect nesting birds and other animal and plant species. The sport of rock climbing has been evolving for over 100 years, and even though a 'rule-book' does not exist, there are many different ethics that have developed through time which allow the sport to continue in a sustainable way.

This booklet is intended to provide guidance for the indoor climber who wants to venture outside. There is an emphasis on ensuring that these first trips are done safely, but of equal importance is knowledge of the sport and the environment in which you climb.

Happy climbing.

BMC CEO

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