Protecting rope

&Y-PASSIMG W ANCHORoM A fixED

/INCHOR.

BINERS

&Y-PASSIMG W ANCHORoM A fixED

BINERS

keep two poiwfs of hatfb

OP. SUMG» CONlTACf AT ALL-

AT A TiMfc PAW-iHr ANCHOR,

WITH OME HMD WHtLC THi" OTHER. HAND» IS HoldinIG

keep two poiwfs of hatfb

OP. SUMG» CONlTACf AT ALL-

AT A TiMfc PAW-iHr ANCHOR,

WITH OME HMD WHtLC THi" OTHER. HAND» IS HoldinIG

Mountaineering

a fixed line and a running belay are two similar methods for protecting a rope.

in a fixed line both the rope and anchors remain stationary while the climbers travel the length of the rope.

in a running belay only the anchors remain stationary while the rope and climbers travel.

with a fixed line all the climbers must have two prusik sungs to pass anchors without disconnecting.

with a running belay, only the middle climbers must have extra gear to pass anchors.

although illustrated here for rock climbing, both techniques are also used for snow and ice.

Frequently on snow and ice slopes all climbers in a running belay will be in motion simultaneously, which makes for safe, fast travel.

Running Belay

SNOW CLIMbINC

the ice ax is Part of a way of walkinc on SLOPEd TErrain caLLEd sELF-bELay. First, plant the ax--the

SHAFT IN SNOW, THE PICK IN ICE--THEN MOVE EACH FOOT ONCE, THEN REPEAT. DO NOT MOVE THE ICE AX WHILE THE FEET ARE IN MOTION Or MOVE THE FEET WHILE THE AX IS IN MOTION.

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pofmf-e^Ay.

QUICK QUIZ

WHEN SOMEONE ON yOUr ROPE TEAM FALLS, yOU SHOULd:

A) THROW yOUrSELF INTO SELF-arrEST

b) RUN dOWN THE MOUNTAIN TO SEE IF yOU CAN HEAd THEM OFF

c) Stay where you arE and, if possible, plant yOUr ICE AX dEEPEr

FINd THE ANSWER ON THE NEXT PACE.

seLf-beLAy when someone on your rope team fauus you should stay where you are and, if possible, puant your ice ax deeper, protect the position of the ice ax. in snow do not allow the ice ax shaft to be puuued past vertical, in ice try to houd the ax pick in the position as it was planted, if the ax was not planted at the moment of the fauu, then attempt to puant it quickiy.

ST0PP1M& asm? vyimta in general the pun of the rope will be resisted best while in a prone position, as illustrated on this page. Climbers should practice hitting a prone position in response to a fall. However, there are some circumstances where keeping your feet where they are is the more secure position.

the harness can be connected to the \ce ax shaft w\th a loop of tubuiar webb\ng or prus\K rope t\ed w\th a g\rth h\tch. the g\rth h\tch w\ii r\de up and down the ax shaft, in the event of a faii, the webb\ng w\ii prov\de a secure connect\on from the cumber to the \ce ax. another aiternat\ve \s a wr\st strap.

QUICK QUIZ

when puuued off your feet and failing down the mountain, you should:

a) tHrow yOUrseLf into seLf-Arrest b) prACTIce Hot-dog stunts

FINd The Answer on The Next PAge.

seif-arrest seif-arrest is the appropriate technique when faiung or when puiied off one's feet by the rope. However, seif-arrest does not work wen in the fouowm situations-.

{ snow siopes greater than forty degrees (the degree wiii vary with snow conditions) { Most ice siopes in conditions where seif-arrest wiii not work the rope must be protected with anchors.

The finai seif-arrest position is iiiustrated here, the ice ax diagonai beneath the chest with the chest pushing down the ax handie. The feet form a tripod with the chest and push weight onto the chest and the ax.

as with operating a beiay, instinctiveiy going into seif-arrest wiii oniy be achieved by those who practice. Ciimbers shouid practice seif-arresting from muitipie siiding positions:

{ Feet first on the back { Head first on the stomach { Head first on the back seif-arrest is difficuit even in the best conditions because faiung cumbers acceierate and, when moving fast enough, bounce. The sooner faiung cumbers get into the seif-arrest position, the better chance they have of getting siowed down and stopped safeiy.

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