Glacier Travel

two common Hazards on glaciers are fallinc rocks and crevasses that can not bE seen because THEy arE covErEd with snow or ice. on glaciers and snow pitches of less than forty dEcrEEs, ropE teams

OF THREE or MORE PERSONS CAN TRAVEL SAFELy WITHOUT PLACINC PROTECTION. THE ROPE SHOULd bE KEPT PErPENdiCULAr TO CREVASSES EVEN IF THAT MEANS THE TEAM MEMbERS TRAVEL SIdE by SIdE.

Glacier Travel

tesr for. houovj spots

OPTIONS ON STEEP SNOW ANd ICE ARE TO, 1) PLACE ANCHORS FOR A rUNNINC bELAy (FASTEST), Z) PLACE A FIXEd LINE, ANd 3) HAVE A LEAdEr bELAy THE OTHER CLIMbERS TO EACH ANCHOR POINT (SLOWEST). IN THE THIRd

CASE, AS IN rOCK CLIMbINC, TWO-PERSON rOPE TEAMS CAN MAKE rEASONAbLE TIME by CHANCINC THE LEAd WITH EACH LENCTH OF THE ROPE.

MINIMIZE POTENTIAL FALL dISTANCE ANd, THErEFOrE, FALL VELOCITy by KEEPINC THE rOPE AS TICHT AS ALLOWS UNENCUMbErEd WALKINC. ON flat TErraiN, WHERE

SELF-bELAy IS NOT

CONVENIENT, Try TO HOLd A FALL WHILE STILL

STANdiNC. ONLy CO INTO SELF-ArrEST AFTER bEINC PULLEd OFF yOUr FEET. ON STEEP SNOW, WHERE SELF-bELAy CAN bE EMPLOyEd WITH EACH PLACEMENT OF THE ICE AX, Try TO HOLd A FALL WHILE IN SELF-bELAy. ONLy ATTEMPT SELF-ArrEST AFTER THE ICE AX HAS bEEN PULLEd FROM THE SELF-bELAy POSITION.

houw spots

Fall Arrest Self Rescue

SiTTlMÊ

SiTTlMÊ

crevasse Rescue

First, set an anchor system (setting anchor systems involves advanced techniques not covered in the mountain cumbing school manual).

second, communicate with the faiuen cumber.

{ Lower warm cuothing or warm water if needed { Rappeu to or be Lowered to an unconscious cumber

Third, make a rescue plan.

stanwnê (wEiGtfr orf Foot PRosik)

stanwnê (wEiGtfr orf Foot PRosik)

MdViw&

SlAtK

waist

PtoflK

UPWARD

{ current or second rope?

{ For an entrenched current rope-, use prusiks and sungs to reach the cumber when they near the top

{ seLf rescue

{ prusik out (illustrated on this page)

{ CLimb out, perhaps being Lowered to make that possible

{ Team rescue

{ most Force (just pull the victim out), five or more rescuers

{ c-puiuey-, three or more rescuers

{ z-puLLey-, two or more rescuers (illustrated on the next page)

{ z plus c-puiuey (or c plus z), one or more rescuers

© mar coMpiex Rescue situations

Middie cumber in (Three person Rope Team)

{First, the cumber hoiding the ieast weight sets an anchor system

{ second, iower the faiien ciimber onto the anchor system

{ Third, beiay the third ciimber to the anchored side of the crevasse

{Fourth, proceed to crevasse rescue step two on the previous page

Crevasse Rescue

crevasse Rescue- v^itH NECHANICAL AîVANTAGer

VICTIM

crevasse Rescue- v^itH NECHANICAL AîVANTAGer

Not Enough room Between crevasses

{ use a puiiey or carabiner to change the direction of puii

Roofed crevasse

{ Eniarge the hoie to the rescue edge of the crevasse. carefuiiy remove snow with a shovei to avoid snow dropping onto the cumber.

Rappeiung to an unconscious cumber

{ second Rope Method (recommended): With one end of the rope attached to the harness and the other end to the anchor system with a prusik knot, iower a ioop of rope haif the distance to the unconscious cumber. Tighten the prusik knot to the anchor system. Then rappei aii the way to the end of the rope. Don't forget a prusik seif-rescue system to get back out.

{ current Rope Method (not recommended): instaii the rappeiung device in the ioose rope just above where the anchor is attached to the current rope. Then attach the anchor to the rope just above the rappeiung device and remove the anchor attachment that is now beiow the rappeiung device. Attach a prusik from the harness to the rope. Rappei down with one hand working the rappei brake, the other hand keeping the prusik knot ioose. When at the injured cumber hoid position by tightening the prusik knot.

Chest Prusik Glacier Travel
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