All personnel using the fixed rope grasp the rope with the palm downward and use it for assistance as they ascend the slope (Figure 7-1, page 7-2). An individual can easily prevent a long fall by attaching himself to the rope with a sling using a friction knot (for example, Prusik, autoblock). The knot is slid along the rope as the individual ascends. If the climber slips and loses control of the rope, the friction knot will grab the rope and arrest the fall. The friction knot used in this manner is referred to as a self-belay (Figure 7-2, page 7-2).

Figure 7-1. Using a fixed rope.
Figure 7-2. Using a self-belay.

Continue reading here: Fixed Rope With Intermediate Anchors

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