B Check Points

(1) There are two overhand knots in the front.

(2) The ropes are not crossed between the legs.

(3) A half hitch is formed on each hip.

(4) Seat is secured with a square knot with overhand safeties on the non-brake hand side.

(5) There is a minimum 4-inch pigtail after the overhand safeties are tied. 4-32. GUARDE KNOT

The guarde knot (ratchet knot, alpine clutch) is a special purpose knot primarily used for hauling systems or rescue (Figure 4-32). The knot works in only one direction and cannot be reversed while under load. a. Tying the Knot.

STEP 1. Place a bight of rope into the two anchored carabiners (works best with two like carabiners, preferably ovals).

STEP 2. Take a loop of rope from the non-load side and place it down into the opposite cararabiner so that the rope comes out between the two carabiners.

Alpinist Knot
Figure 4-32. Guarde knot.

b. Check Points.

(1) When properly dressed, rope can only be pulled in one direction.

(2) The knot will not fail when placed under load.


Continue reading here: Anchors

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