A Tying the Knot

(1) Middle-of-the-Rope Prusik. The middle-of-the-rope Prusik knot can be tied with a short rope to a long rope as follows (Figure 4-20.):

STEP 1. Double the short rope, forming a bight, with the working ends even. Lay it over the long rope so that the closed end of the bight is 12 inches below the long rope and the remaining part of the rope (working ends) is the closest to the climber; spread the working end apart. STEP 2. Reach down through the 12-inch bight. Pull up both of the working ends and lay them over the long rope. Repeat this process making sure that the working ends pass in the middle of the first two wraps. Now there are four wraps and a locking bar working across them on the long rope. STEP 3. Dress the wraps and locking bar down to ensure they are tight and not twisted. Tying an overhand knot with both ropes will prevent the knot from slipping during periods of variable tension.

Figure 4-20. Middle-of-the-rope Prusik.

STEP 1. Using an arm's length of rope, and place it over the long rope. STEP 2. Form a complete round turn in the rope.

STEP 3. Cross over the standing part of the short rope with the working end of the short rope.

STEP 4. Lay the working end under the long rope.

STEP 5. Form a complete round turn in the rope, working back toward the middle of the knot.

STEP 6. There are four wraps and a locking bar running across them on the long rope. Dress the wraps and locking bar down. Ensure they are tight, parallel, and not twisted.

STEP 7. Finish the knot with a bowline to ensure that the Prusik knot will not slip out during periods of varying tension.

Figure 4-21. End-of-the-rope Prusik knot.
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