The Fifth Edition

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In late 1987, climbing committee chairman Ken Small responded to concerns of The Mountaineers Books staff and initiated an effort to assess the need for a new edition. A Freedom Ad Hoc Study Committee was formed to make specific recommendations to the club's board of trustees. The committee reported the need for a revision of many technique sections, overall improvement in the writing quality, and an upgraded visual format. It also recommended that this revision be carried out in the tradition of a volunteer committee. Chaired by Paul Gauthier, the committee's members were Ben Arp, Steve Costie, Nancy Jackson, Tom Merritt, and Susan Price. In order to assess the current strengths and the specific needs for improvements to the fifth edition, the committee solicited the opinions of Mountaineer members and well-known climbers and writers from outside the Club. The committee is grateful for the well-thought-out responses received from Greg Child, Randall Green, Michael Loughman, Eric Perlman, Doug Robinson, and Gary Speer. Many of their suggestions were incorporated into this latest edition of the book.

The board of trustees selected Paul Gauthier to spearhead a substantial revision of the fourth edition. The committee was organized into a coordinators' group, which took on the responsibility for overall guidance, and into subcommittees for subject areas. The individual subcommittees used various methods to produce detailed narrative "outlines." These were reviewed and modified by the coordinators' group to incorporate a wide range of critique by the whole committee. Professional writer Don Graydon wrote "drafts" from these narratives, which were reviewed and revised by the committee. Graydon showed extraordinary skill in working both with a diverse committee and the Books staff and in enhancing the overall style.

The coordinator group consisted of Paul Gauthier, chairman; Ben Arp, editorial coordinator; Marty Lentz, Safety and Rescue section coordinator; Margaret Miller, Rock section coordinator; Judy Ramberg, Approaching the Peaks section coordinator; and Craig Rowley, Snow and Ice section coordinator. In 1990, Paul Gauthier moved to England, and the committee was subsequently chaired by Myrna Plum.

The Approaching the Peaks Subcommittee jointly developed five chapters with major contributors as follows: "First Steps," Bill Deter and Judi Maxwell; "Clothing and Equipment," Judy Ramberg; "Camping and Food," Judy Ramberg and Judi Maxwell; "Routefinding and Navigation," Bob Burns with consultation on maps section by Stewart M. Wright; and "Wilderness Travel," Judi Maxwell, Bill Deters, and Judy Ramberg.

The Fundamentals and Rock Climbing Subcommittee jointly reviewed the revisions developed by the following lead individuals: "Ropes, Knots, and Carabiners," Jack E. Bennett and Larry Lon-gley; "Belaying," Allen Frees; "Rappelling," Ken Small; "Rock Climbing Technique," Susan Price; "Leading and Placing Protection," Dan Bean; "Aid Climbing and Pitoncraft," Jeff Johnson; and Rating Systems appendix, Jan Green. Cal Magnusson of REI consulted on the "Belaying" chapter.

The Snow and Ice Climbing Subcommittee jointly revised each of their chapters with the major contributors as follows: "Snow Travel and Climb ing," Kurt Hanson, Jim Cade, and Don Heck; "Ice Climbing," Don Heck; "Glacier Travel and Crevasse Rescue," Craig Rowley and Nancy Jackson; and "Winter and Expedition Climbing," Kurt Hanson, Nancy Jackson, and Jim Cade.

The Safety and Rescue Subcommittee, with contributions by Paul Gauthier and Ben Arp, condensed and revised materials into "Safety and Leadership," revision led by Marty Lentz, and the "Alpine Rescue" chapter, led by Pete A. Bustanoby.

As the text was reaching a final form, Books staff organized efforts to revise figures and illustrations and provide artwork and photography. The committee end of this large effort was coordinated by Marilyn O'Callaghan. Concurrently, the professional design and layout was directed by Books production and design manager Marge Mueller.

THE MOUNTAINEERS, founded in 1906, is a non-profit outdoor activity and conservation club, whose mission is "to explore, study, preserve and enjoy the natural beauty of the outdoors " Based in Seattle, Washington, the club is now the third largest such organization in the United States, with 12,000 members and four branches throughout Washington State.

The Mountaineers sponsors both classes and year-round outdoor activities in the Pacific Northwest, which include hiking, mountain climbing, ski-touring, snowshoeing, bicycling, camping, kayaking and canoeing, nature study, sailing, and adventure travel. The club's conservation division supports environmental causes through educational activities, sponsoring legislation, and presenting informational programs. All club activities are led by skilled, experienced volunteers, who are dedicated to promoting safe and responsible enjoyment and preservation of the outdoors.

The Mountaineers Books, an active, non-profit publishing program of the club, produces guidebooks, instructional texts, historical works, natural history guides, and works on environmental conservation. All books produced by The Mountaineers are aimed at fulfilling the club's mission.

If you would like to participate in these organized outdoor activities or the club's programs, consider a membership in The Mountaineers. For information and an application, write or call The Mountaineers, Club Headquarters, 300 Third Avenue West, Seattle, Washington 98119; (206) 284-6310.


Stratocumulus front over the High Sierra, Mount Whitney region, California. Photo hy Galen Row ell!Mountain Light

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