Rock climbing Australian

The Australian system uses open-ended numerics 1-33. See Table 1.

Brazilian

The rating of climbs in Brazil is composed of two parts. The first number gives the general level of difficulty of the route ranging from first to eighth grade (or degree), which is written as grade 5° . There is no comparison to the YDS for this part of the system. The second part gives the difficulty of the hardest free move (or sequence of moves

Fig. App. 2-2. Rating systems used throughout the world

COUNTRY

Australia

Brazil

Britain

Canada

East Germany

France

West Germany

Italy

Japan

Spain

United States Quotation marks denote tions have been made to

RATING SYSTEM Australian Brazilian British, IFAS YDS, NCCS E. German, IFAS French, IFAS W. German = "U1AA," IFAS French, IFAS UIAA, "NCCS" "French," IFAS YDS, NCCS that only slight modifica-the system indicated.

without a natural rest) in roman numerals with sup (superior) added for greater accuracy. See Table 1 for comparison to the YDS. Ratings of climbs are written as 5° VI.

British

The British classification system is comprised of two elements, the adjectival grade and the technical grade, and is expressed as, for instance, HVS 5a.

The adjectival grade describes the overall difficulty of a route, including factors such as exposure, how sustained the route is, seriousness, strenuousness, protection opportunities, and runout. Acronyms are used up to Extremely Severe. The need for an open-ended, less cumbersome system led to an alphanumeric adaptation, hence El, E2, E3, etc.

Easy Moderate Difficult Very Difficult Hard Very Difficult Mild Severe Severe Hard Severe Very Severe Hard Very Severe Extremely Severe subdivided as:

Diff V. Diff HVD MS S

HS VS HVS ES

The technical grade is defined as the hardest move on a particular route. This numeric component of the British system is also open-ended and is subdivided into a, b, and c (see Table 1).

The two grades are linked to each other. For example, the standard adjectival grade for a well-protected 6a, which is not particularly sustained, is E3. If the route is a bit run out then it would be E4; if it is really run out then it would be E5.

French

The French open-ended rating system currently extends from l-8c. Starting at level 6, the ratings are subdivided a, a( + ), b, b( + ), c, and c( + ). See Table 1.

Soviet Union

Currently, there is no rock-climbing classification system used in the Soviet Union. First ascents are often done by climbers from other countries who rate the climb according the rating system used in his or her own country.

UIAA

The UIAA rating system currently extends from 1-X( + ) with levels V-X subdivided into (-), (nought), and ( + ). It docs not express length, time, seriousness, and dangers of the climb. See Table 1.

West German

The same as UIAA except uses arabic numbers (see Table 1).

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