Rappel Anchors

Rappel Anchors

You will often be hanging your full weight on the rappel anchor, which is simply some point of attachment to the rock, snow, or ice. Set up the anchor as close as possible to the edge of the rappel route (providing you can get a solid anchor). This provides the longest possible rappel. It also makes it easier to pull the rope down from below after the rappel, and often reduces the danger of rockfall as

Anchor Rope Rappel

Fig. 8-9. The dulfersitz you do so.

Think about possible effects on the rope as you are looking for an anchor. Locate the anchor so as to minimize chances of the rope being pulled into a constricting slot or otherwise hanging up when you try to pull it down from below. Check the position of the rope over the edge of the rappel route as the person before you finishes rappelling. If the rope moves near or into a slot in the surface that could restrict its movement, consider relocating the anchor.

You can use natural anchors or artificial (manufactured) anchors, just as you do for belaying or for placing points of protection during a climb.

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