Mountaineering

The Freedom of the Hills

Fifth Edition

Editor: Don Graydon

MOUNTAINEERS

© 1960, 1967, 1974, 1982, 1992 by The Mountaineers All rights reserved

No part of this book may be reproduced in any form, or by any electronic, mechanical, or other means, without permission in writing from the publisher.

Published by The Mountaineers

1001 SW Klickitat Way, Seattle, Washington 98134

Published simultaneously in Canada by Douglas & Mclntyre, Ltd., 1615 Venables Street, Vancouver, B.C. V5L2H1

Published simultaneously in Great Britain by Swan Hill Press, 101 Longden Road, Shrewsbury SY3 9EB, England

Manufactured in the United States of America

Edited by Maureen O'Neal

Illustrations by Bob Cram, Nick Gregoric, Ross

Prather, Ramona Hammerly Cover design by Elizabeth Watson Book layout by Barbara Bash

Cover photograph: Midnight on the summit of Mount

McKinley, Alaska. Photo by Patrick Morrow Frontispiece: Climbers on Vowell Pinnacle, Howser Spire in the distance, Bugaboos, Purcell Range, British Columbia. Photo by Baiba Morrow

The following trademarks appear in this book: Ball Nuts, Band-Aids, Camalots, Chevron Blazo, Clog, Coleman, Diamox, Friends, Gibbs, Gore-Tex, Hexentrics, Jumar, Kevlar, Masonite, Mylar, Polypro, Quickies, RURP, Rock 'n Rollers, RPs, Spectra, Stoddard, Stokes, Stones, Stopper, Styrofoam, Teflon, Therm-a-Rest, TCUs. Tri Cams, Vclcro, and Vibram.

Library of Congress Cataloging in Publication Data

Mountaineering : the freedom of the hills / editor, Don Graydon. — 5th ed. p. cm.

Includes bibliographical references (p. ) and index. ISBN 0-89886-201-9 — ISBN 0-89886-309-0 (pbk.) 1. Mountaineering. 2. Rock climbing. 3. Snow and ice climbing.

I. Graydon, Don. II. Mountaineers (Society) GV200.M688 1991

796.5'22—dc20 91-26342

A NOTE ABOUT SAFETY

Safety is an important concern in all outdoor activities. No book can alert you to every hazard or anticipate the limitations of every reader. Therefore, the descriptions of equipment and techniques in this book are not representations that a particular tool or technique will be safe for you or your party. When you participate in the activities described in this book, you assume responsibility for your own safety. Keeping informed on current conditions and exercising common sense are the keys to a safe, enjoyable outing.

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