Klemheist knot

The Klemheist (fig. 6-25) is another alternative to the prusik, with the advantage that it allows you to use a sling made from either accessory cord or webbing. This can be a big help to a climber caught with an ample supply of webbing but little cord.

The cord or webbing is wound around the main rope in a spiral and then threaded through the loop of the top wrap. The Klemheist tied off with a sheet bend is an improved version that is less likely to jam and easier to loosen and slide. The knot also can be tied around a carabiner, providing a good handhold.

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