Foot jams

If the crack is wide enough, jam more of the toe or even the entire foot into the crack. As with the toe jam, insert the foot sideways with the sole facing the side of the crack, then twist to jam (fig. 9-20a). Avoid twisting the foot so securely that it gets stuck, leaving you open to serious injury in case of a fall.

In even wider cracks, you can jam the foot diagonally or heel-to-toe (fig. 9-20b).

else into cracks that are too large for fist jams but too small to accommodate the entire body. These are the awkward off-width cracks, so called because they aren't the right width for any of the more standard jamming techniques. Details of off-width climbing are outlined later in this chapter.

Continue reading here: Counterbalance

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