Fist jams

In a crack that's too wide for a hand jam, you can insert your fist (fig. 9-18). The thumb may be inside or outside the fist, depending on which provides the best fit. Your palm may face the back of the crack, the front, or either side. Flexing the muscles in the fist can expand the fist slightly to help fit the crack. Fist jams are often painful, but

Fig. 9-19. Toe jams: a, jamming in a crack; b, smearing in a corner.

Fig. 9-18. Fist jam: three different positions

Fig. 9-19. Toe jams: a, jamming in a crack; b, smearing in a corner.

can be very useful. For the most secure hold, try to find a constriction in the crack that you can jam your fist above.

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