Climbing Cracks And Dihedrals

Cracks may be climbed with a pure jamming technique or by a combination of techniques. A very potent combination is to jam with one side of the body and use face holds with the other (fig. 9-25).

Cracks also may be climbed with a pure lieback technique or by liebacking with one arm in combination with face holds for the other hand (fig. 9-26). This may result in a kind of stemming action.

Dihedrals (inside comers) may be climbed by pure stemming. You can also use various combinations, such as hands jammed in a crack splitting the dihedral combined with feet stemming on opposite sides of the dihedral (fig. 9-27). You may even use

Fig. 9-25. Combining jamming with face climbing

classic chimney technique, described later in this chapter.

Useful edges or other holds may be found hidden within cracks—on the sides or even at the back of wide cracks. Remember that horizontal cracks can also be used as cling holds.

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