Attach the rope to the anchor

The climber who set up the anchor now attaches a short sling to the climbing rope with a prusik knot, Bachmann knot, or mechanical ascender, and clips the sling to the anchor (fig. 13-6b). The knot or ascender is then slid down the rope, toward the crevasse, until the sling is tight. Now anyone who is still in self-arrest can ease the load off the ice axe and onto the anchor. Do it slowly to confirm that the anchor is solid and that the ascender or friction knot is gripping the climbing rope tightly. (Keep in mind that if you choose to use a prusik knot, one rescuer will have to tend the knot later to keep it open any time the fallen climber is being pulled up. The Bachmann knot and ascenders, on the other hand, usually require less tending.)

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