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Greg low* slomfing ■ frett of Hvf Nwtfc Fki of Krtdwnei oi Ike woy to m MiK«uf«l attenpl o* Hm Grand Central CoaWr, 1973. Hm mxI year Mike Wet! aad the avtkor node ffceJt tintb. (Photo: M Limtl

Such was the state of affairs when Mike Wets and I arrived at the Icefield Campground in mid-August, back for yet another of our annual efforts. On our first try our now-traditional bad luck held, and a snowstorm caught us before we had crossed the bergschrund. Soon the avalanches were roaring, and we were doing the quickstep to get down out of their range.

In the 1970s, Mike was one of my main climbing partners. We had met through a mutual friend in Crested Butte, Colorado, in the autumn of 1970. Although Mike had not been climbing as long as 1 had at that time, he had shown his adventurous aptitude just a few months after he began by his nearly successful first winter ascent (with John Weiland) of the classic Harding Route on Keeler Needle in the Sierra Nevada. 1 liked Mikes hard-core, no-nonsense, lumber-camp sensibilities (his father was a logger in Northern California), combined with an innate competence in the outdoors. Soon we were doing new routes together on rock and ice We made a number of climbs on the sandstone walls of Zion Canyon, Utah, and spent summers on the big faces of the Canadian Rockies The previous winter we had made the first ascent of Bridalveil Falls in Colorado, which had been a rock and roll sock hop.

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