Index Ice Climbing

accessories 98-99 aid climbing on ice 181 Aiguille Verte, Nant Blanc Face 2» Alaska, general survey 192-193 Alexander,J. M. 231 Alpamayo 30, 223 alpine ice 12, 15, 1 6, 17 Alps, general survey 198 Am a Dablam, South Face 35, 36 Ames Falls, Colorado 196 Anderegg, Melchior 25 Anderson, Rab 38, 226 Andromeda, Mount, 193

West Shoulder Direct 45-48 Angellucci, Serge 40, 209 Annapurna, South Face 37, 90 Athabasca, Mount, North Face 47, 120,

124, 193 Aubrey, Paul 36 Auger, Tim 33 avalanches 108-111 axe probing 123 backstepping 160 Bacon, Paul 30

Baffin Island, general survey 193

Baker, Ken 29

Barber, Henry 35, 214, 228

Beat. Bob 49

Bearzi, Mike 36, 40

Beckey, Fred 29

belays boot-axe 116, 117 self-belay with axe 114 simple alpine set-up 126 sitting hip 116 snow 116

standard set-up 181-182 water ice set-up 144 Bell, Charlie 29

Ben Nevis 26, (86, 196, 228, 229, 230 (topo), Hi landmark climbs 22S, 229, 230 (topo), 231

Gardyloo Buttress 28, 231 Green Gully 25 Hadrian's Wall 231 Minus Two Gully 231 Observatory Ridge 27

Orion Face Direct 231 Point Five Gully 231 Zero Gully 231 Bdrobe, Claude 33 Bibler, Todd 36

Birdbrain Boulevard, Colorado 40, 215,

216 (topo), 217 Birdcage, Colorado 147—151 bivouacs 104

Black December, Norway 35 Blanchard, Barry 37 Blench, James 33 Blessed Rage, Canada 40 Bohigas, Nil 37

Boiviri, Jean-Marc 35, 37, 233, 236 bollards 127, 129, 188 Bonatti, Walter 29 Bonington, Chris 90 boots 90-91

Bouchard, John 32, 35, 49 bouldering on ice 106, iS 2 Bourgeau Left hand, Canada 33, 195 Bragg, John 32, 36 Braithewaite, Paul 'Tut1' 228 breakthroughs 185 Brtashears. David 37, 64-69, 66, 67,

241-245 244 Bridal veil Falls, Colorado 2, 33, 49, 59-63, 61, 62, 85, ¡94, 196, 2i2, 213 (topo), 214, 215

British Isles, general survey 196-197 Brooker, W. D. "Bill" 28, 231 Brown, Joe 13 bulge, clearing a 156 Buzowski, Joe 40 Cairngorms 226 Deep Throat 38 Fallout Comer 38 Migrant 38

Shelter Stone Crag, Citadel/Sticil Face 226, 227 (topo), 228 Canada, general survey 193 Cannon Mountain

Black Dike 32, 195. 228 Fafnir 195 Carlstrom, Thomas 35 Carmen, Dave 36 Carrington, Rab 35, 38

Casarotro, Renatto 35 Cascade des Viol I ins, France 76 Cascade Falls, Canada 95 Cathedral Ledge Repentance 32, 195 Remission 195 Caucasus, general survey 192, 198 cauliflowered ice 17, i S, 154-155 Cecchinel, Walter 3S Cen-oTorre, West Face 34, 35, 36 Chacraraju, South Face 35-36 chandeliered ice 153—155 Chantriaux, Georges 76 Charlet, Armand 28 Cheesemond, Dave 37 chimney position 157 Chouinard, Yvon 31, 35, 228 Cirque de Gavarnie, Voie de I'Overdose

36, 198 Clothier, Robin 79, 238 clothing 90-93

layering system 91,92 Clough, Ian 228, 231 Coale, Frank 30 Cody, Wyoming 195 Colonel Foster, Mount 193 Colonna, Wil fried 4 f Col ton, Nick 35, 36, 232-235 comparison of ice climbs around the world 21

Condevaux, Denis 41 conserving energy 107 Cook, Mount, Caroline Face 30 corniced ridges 108, 409 couloir, climbing a 132-134 Covington, Mike 35 crampons 95, 96

monopoint advantages 157-158 spurs 157 crampon techniques frontpomting 28, 30, 127, 129, 134 hedging 183

heel hooking 157, 160, 166, 172 climbing in snow 117 pigeon-toe frontpointing 157 crevasse rescue 113, 121, 122 cross-body lock 157, 160, 163 Cunningham, John 186, 187, 228

Curtain Call, Canada 33

209, 238 Davis, Greg 33, 40, 85 de Ségnone, Henry 28 de ad m en 98, 116

Deborah, Mount, West Face and West

Ridge 29 Demaison, René 29 Denz, Bill 35 descending low-angle ice 125 snow 117 Destivelle, Catherine i 12 DévouasSOux, Camille 28 Dhaulagiri, East Face 37 Dùntefossen, Norway 35 Doseth, Hans Christian 35 Doyle, Kevin 33, 37, 209, 210 dry tooling 167, 169, 172, 174, 176, 178

Eckenstein, Oscar 27-23, 30

Eckenstein technique 28, 30

Eigerwand 28, 30-31, 231

Elzinga, Jim 33

en canard 124

energy-absorbing devices 98

Evans, John 30

Everett, Jeff 40

Fang, Colorado 40, 85, 219

Fay, Mount, North Face 100-101, 136

Fearful Symmetry, Canada 40

Ferguson, Duncan 33,38

figure 4 87, 160, 161

First aid 111

Firth, Jack 33

flagging flatfoot technique (sn French technique) Flematti, Robert 29 Following the lead 183 Foraker, Mount, Infinite Spur 58 Fowler, Charlie 38, 40, 215 Fowler, Mick 38

Frankenstein Cliff. New Hampshire 195

free-standing pillar 18

French (or flatfoot) technique 28-31. 125,

Friesen, Tim 33, 209, 210

frog rest 157

frontpointing (sk crampon techniques) Frost, Tom 246-248 Gabarrou, Patrick 35, 37, 236 Gasherbmm iV, West Face 37 Georges, Roland 81

Chilini, René 37 Glacenost, France 80 glacier travel 121, 123 Gietscherhorn 28 glissading I i 8-1 IS gorilla grunt 160, i62-i64 Grand Teton

49, 102, 195 Grand Charmoz 28 Route Canal 38. 228 Shea's Chute 38 Grandes Jorasses Croz Spur 28 Extreme Dream 233 Madntyre/Colton Route 40, 206, 231,

332, 233, 234 (topo), 235 Shroud 29 Crassi, Gian Carlo 35, 80 Greenland, general survey 193 Greenwood, Brian 49 Gréloz, Robert 28 Grive I, Laurent 28 Gross Fiescherhom 28 Gross Wiesbachhorn, Northwest Face 28 Hall, Brian 226 Hamilton, Murray 38, 226 Hangender Garten, Austria 40 Hansen, Ulf Geir 35 hardware 93-99 Hargreaves, Alison 246 harnesses 98, 99 Harrer, Heinrich 29, 30 Haston, Dougall 228. 231 Haston, Stevie 41 Heckmair, Ändert 28. 30-31 Hendricks. Bruce 40 Himalaya, general Survey 192, 199 hollow tubes IP, 156 Homer, George 33, 49 Hot Doggies, Colorado 40, 85 Hungabee, Mount 135 Hunter, Mount

Moonflower Buttress 36 North Buttress 36, 3 7 Northwest Spur 53-58, 54, 55. 200-203. 201 (topo), 202 Huntington Ravine 195 Hyndnefossen, Norway 35 ice axes and hammers 94, 96 curved picks 31, 36 pick modification 167 reverse-curve picks 41 taping wrist loop to shaft 156 Terrordactyl 31

ice axe techniques placement 184, 185 hooking natural ice holds 14 3, 156 hooking on rock 167, 169-170 liebackingon tools 167, 176, 178 probing 123

Self-belay with ice axe 114 stacking tools 160, 162 torqueing 167, 169, 176, 178 ice bouldering 182 icefall, negotiating an 130-131 ice mushrooms 152 ice pitons 28, 97-98

drive-in hook types 97, 180 drive-in tube types 97, 146, 180 Snargs 33, 36, 214 ice screws 29, 41. 96-97

placement 126, 144, 149, 181 on the lead 149, 181 screws in series 189 V-threads 188, 214 International de la Cascade de Glace 76,

80, 81, 82, 83 intuitive avoidance of danger 111 Jacquot, Ray 29 Jaeger, Nicholas 36, 223 Jager, Claude 35 Jones, Chris 49 Josephson, Joe 40, 209 Jotterand, Ray 33 Julien, Dominique 36 Kahlltna Base Camp 88—89 Kangtega, Northwest Face 190-191, 245,

2 46-249 247 (topo) Kasparek, Fritz 28 Katahdin, Maine 195 Kennedy, Mike 53-58 54, 200-203, 202, 233

Kenya, Mount, Diamond Couloir 13, 135 Keystone Green Steps, Alaska 203, 204

(topo), 205 Kilimanjaro, Breach Wall 35 Kirwan, Troy 40 Kitchener, Mount

Grand Central Couloir 35, 49-52, 50,

193. 205-209, 206, 207 (topo) Ramp Route 47, 207 Klewin, Doug 36 Klucker, Christian 25 kneelocks 157, 173 Kor, Layton 3t Kurtyka, Wojciech 37 Kwangde, Hungo Face 36, 37, 64, 65—67,

68, 69, 241-245, 243 (topo), 244 L'Aventure C'est L'Aventure, France 41

LEqusrre Canada 195 La Dame du Lac, France 3 0, 40 La Lyre, France 41

Lacelle, Guy 41 Lagarde, Jacques 28 Lauchlan, John 33 Lauper, Hans 18 Lauterbrunrien Breithorn 28 Le Loutre, Canada 33 Leach, Tim 36 learning from others 106 Les Courtes, North Face 31 Les Droites, North Face 29 Les Dru, Northeast Couloir 35 Lew, Bird 12, 141-155, 141, i42, 145, 146, 148-150, i54, 155, 169-170, 174—175 liebacktng on tools 167, (76, 178 Little Thang, Colorado 169-1 71, 219 Lochnagar, Eagle Ridge 28 Locke, Charlie 29 Logan, Jim 27 Logan. Mount 193

Hummingbird Ridge 29-30, long underwear 91. 92 Long, Dick 30 LovaI, Romain 82 low-angle ice techniques 124, 125, 127-128

Lowe, Alex 40. 85, 209, 223, 225 Lowe, George 59, 53, 54. 55. 56-58,

200-203, 202 Lowe. Creg 32. 33, 49, 50, 214 Lowe. Janie Hannigan 63, 71, 75 Lowe, Mike 223 Lucas, Enric 37 Lyskamm, North Face 25 Maclnnes, Hamish 28, 29, 31, 228, 231 Maclntyre, Alex 35, Î7. 228, 232-235 Mahlens Peak Waterfall, Utah 32, 49 Maillot, Dom 82 Marlier, Enzo 82 Marshall, Jeff 40 Marshall, Jimmy 28,228, 23-1 Matterhom, North Face 28,231 Maybohm, Henry 29 McKay, Joe 209 McKeith, Bugs 33 McNerthney, Dan 36 McNerthney, Pat 36 Menlungtse, South Face 37 Messner. Reinhold 29, 35. 67, 69 Meunier, Marie-Odile 35

Milne, Rob 38 mind games 185 Mixed Master, Canada 40 mixed rock and ice 25. 148, 167-179 moderate to steep ice techniques 126 monkey hang 141. 146, 150, 151, 156 Mont Blanc Brenva Spur 25 Cascade de Notre Dame 37 Hypercouloir 37 Grand Pilier d'Angle 29, 49, 228 Mont Blanc du Tac ni Getvasutti Couloir 235 Super Couloir 35, 37, 206 Super Couloir Direct 40, 235-238, 236, 237 (topo) morale 1 35 mountain essence 113 Munsch, Rainier 36 Nagy, Karl 40

natural ice handholds 142, (43, 145. 156 natural (clean) protection (4 3, 157, i 79, 180

Naudin, Patrick 41

navigation 104

Nemesis, Canada 33, 213

New Zealand, general survey 198-199

Ncwsom, Rob 36

Nicol, Graeme 28, 226, 231

Ni ma Tenzing 64-69

Northrop, Christie 204

Norway, general survey 197-198

Nuit Blanche. France 41

Nunn, Paul 169

nutrition 106

Octopussy, Colorado 40r 84, 85-87, 217,

218, 219-220 orangutan hang ifi-f— J S 5, 168 Orgler, Andt 40 Osrrandcr, Larry 40 Ouairy, Richard 82 packing light 107 packs 99

Parallel Cully B, Scotland 29 Parkin, Andy 40 Patey, Tom 28. 228. 231 Patterson, Mount Rip Tide 4t) Snowbird Clacier 29 Pèlerins

North Face 35 Beyond Good and Evil 40 pencil chandelier icicles 152 PeiToux. Godefroy 40 Pi ha rot, Philippe 40

pied troisième 126, 127-128, 133,

136-138 /JÎpfft (Were 126, 127, 128, 134 pio/ii appui 125 projet canne [24, f25, 129, 133 piolet manche 114 piolet pame 126, 127, 128 piolet poignard 129 pioirt ramasse 124, 133 proiet ratnpe 126, 127 pioief iMclrott 129, 137-139 Pipes, D. 231 Plan, The, North Face 28 planning 107 plunge step 117

Polar Circus, Canada 33, 76, 80. 82 Poole. Brian 35 Porte. Jean-Marc 77-79 Positive Thinking, New York 187 pressing, with crampons 160 Prezelj, Marco 37 Professor's Gully, Canada 195 Profit, Christophe 37 Promenade, Vermont 195 Prophet on a Stick, Utah 40 Provo Canyon, Utah 195 psychological plateaus 107 Pumori, Southeast Spur 37 Quadra, Mount Arctic Dream 209

Gimme Shelter 3 3. 195. 209, 210. 2 M (topo) Radiff, Randy 37, 41 Raeburti, Harold 25, 28 Rainier, Mount 196

Willis Wal! 29 Rakaposhi, North Ridge 37 ratings 18-20 Raven's Gully. Scotland 28 Reality Bath, Canada 41 Reason, Craig 40

Renault, Thierry 40. 76-82, 78, 238, 2i0 Renzler, Korirad 35 responsibility 111-113 Richard, Regis 33 Riegele. Fritz 28

Rigid Designator, Colorado 85, 168, 219 rime ice 17, 193 Robinson, Ward 38 Robson, Mount Emperor Face 27 North Facc 27 North Ridge 27

Roch, Andri 38 rockfall 231

rock gear, use of 180-18) Rocky Mountain National Park, Colorado 196

Rooster's Comb, Northeast Face 36

roping in thirds 121

Roskclley, John 33

Rossitcr, Richard 13

route finding 1 I 3-114

Run die Mount, Terminator 40, 195

St. Elias, Mount 193

Schauer, Robert 37

Schmid, Franz 28

Schmid, Toni 28

Scott, Chic 2?

Scott, Doug 1 I 3

Scottish Mountaineering Club 25 scumming 157, 175 Sea of Vapors, Canada 40 Secret Probation, Colorado 40, 85,

176-178 self-arrest 114-115 self-bclay with ice axe 114 Seventh Tentacle, Colorado 86, 171—175,

3(7, 219 Shaw, R. 23! Shea, Steve 38, 214 Sierra Nevadas Ice Nine 82, 196 Mendel Couloir 196 V-Notch 196 U-Notch 196 Silver-tongued Devil, Colorado 158—159 ski poles, teles topic 97 skiing 104-105 Skreslet, Laurie 33 Smith. Gordon 214, 226 Smith. Jay 40 Smith. Robin 228, 231 Snargs 33, 36. 214 Snow Dome, Slipstream 33, 37, 193 snow pickets 93 snow stakes 98, 116

snowbridgc, crossing 122 snowshoeing 104-105 snowy terrain techniques 113-119 Sole, Albi 33

solo climbing 186, 187, 220-223 Soursac. Bra no 82 South America, general survey 196 speed 107

Spence. Ken 38, 226 stacking tools 160, 162, 166 Steck, Alan 30 stemming 157, 173 Stenhouse, J. 231 step-cutting 119, 120,228 step-kicking M 4 Stob Col re nan Lochan Central Grooves 38 Inclination 38 Tilt 38 Stremfelj, Andrej 37 Stump, Mugs 27, 36 Sweden, general survey 197-198 Swedlund, Herb 29 synthetic fibers 90, 91 T2, Canada 40

Takkakkaw Falls, Canada 11, 33, 195

Tasman, Mount, Balfour Face 22-23, 35, 228 Taulliraju

South Face 36

Southwest Buttress 223, 224 (topo), 225 Taylor. Alan 38 Taylor, Rob 35

Temple, Mount, Striving for the Moon 38 Teriebd Traverse, Colorado 3 8, 85 Terrordactyl 31 Tête de Gramusat 40, 77

Blind Faith 40, 79, 238, 239 (topo), 240 Gramusat Direct 40, 79. 238 Theisen. Jim 33 thin-ice protection 189 thin-ice techniques 18, 158, (59,

riming 113

Togfossen, Norway 35 Tomlinson, Ian 12 torqueing 167, 169, 176, 178 training 104, 106

Trapecio, South Face 70-73, 74, 75. 220,

221, 222 (topo), 223 Triolet. North Face 28 Tubular Bells, Colorado (42, 143, (15,

146 turnout 160

Twight, Marc 40, 41, 246-247, 2 48-24 9 United States, general survey 192,

195-196 Ushba, Mount, West Face 30 V-thread anchor 188, 214 vapor barrier liner (VBL) 91 Vetrisfossen, Norway 35 Vinson Massif !96 Visa Pour TAinérique, France 40 Vockeroth, Don 29 Vorg, Ludwig 28 water ice 12. 15, 16, 17. 18 weather 103

"Weeping Pillar, Canada 33. 76 Weeping Wall, Canada 33, 80, 82 Weiland, John 50, 203-205 Weis, Mike 33, 35, 49, 194, 205-209,

313, 314 Welzenbach, Wilto 28 Widow's Tears, California 196, 213 Wilcox. Rick 32 Wilczycznsk. Ludwik 37 Wilford, Mark 40, 215 Wilson, Jay 36 Wilson, Jim 30 Wind River Range 195 Winkelman, Eric 36, 85 Winkler. Kurt 33 Womb with a View. Colorado 40 Wood. Rob 33 wool 90

Wright, Dave 33 Zapeüi, Cosimo 29

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