Contents

Foreword H Acknowledgments 9 Introduction t i General Information

Icy Roots, Crystal Blossoms: A Brief History of Ice 23

Shepherds and Englishmen 25 Scottish Gullies and North Walls 25 Postwar and into the 1960s 28 The New Ice Age: The Great Curve 30 The North American Contribution 32 Amalgamation 35 Coming of Age 36

Off-Season High-Mountain Water Ice 37 All Mixed Up 38

One Man's Frostbite; The Ice Experience 43

Fear and Confidence 44 The Alpine Ballroom 49 Grabbing Friendship by the Ankle 53 Mind Marathon 59 The Hungo Face of Kwangde 64 No Se Gana, Pero Se Goza 70 Cascade Climbing in France 76 Oc to pussy 85

Accoutrement: The Necessary Clothing and Gear se

Clothing 90 Hardware 93 Protection Hardware 96 Accessories 98

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