This book is a labor of love that would have been stillborn without the involvement of the following consenting adults (and two great kids!).

Photographers: Greg Lowe, Mike Lowe, George Lowe III, Bill Belcourt, David Breashears, Brad Johnson, Chris Jones, Jon Krakauer, Dan Levison, Tom McCarthy, Mike Munger, Christie Northrop, Jean-Marc Porte, Thierry Renault, René Robert, François-Guy Thivierge, Lance Wilcox, Mark Wiiford, and Willis Wood. I would especially like to thank lan Tomlinson, who was a blind date when my wife, Teri, and I first met him in the Canadian Rockies for the alpine ice shoot lan, you went way beyond what was expected. Your photos are excellent, and your quiet competence and good Welsh sense of humor made the time we spent together extremely pleasant. The well-timed shots of single malt scotch never hurt either! Thank you, friend,

Richard Rossiter: Richard took time out from his own massive book project documenting climbs in Rocky Mountain National Park to create the topo drawings for this book. As always, Richard, your drawings are accurate and elegant. Thank you for sharing your artistry.

Special thanks to Rick Medrick, Jeff Long, Bill Roos, and Pat Ament for reading and improving portions of earlier versions of this work.

Correspondents/Informants: Todd Bibler, Barry Blanchard, François Damilano, Mal Duff, Joe Josephson, George Lowe 111, Rob Newsom, Rick Wilcox, and others.

John Roskelley: A classic, no-nonsense American who is a giant in Himalayan history, John was one of the first climbers to push into serious class 6 ice twenty years ago. He was the perfect partner on one of my all-time favorite climbs, the East Face of Tawoche in Nepal. Thanks for agreeing to write the Foreword, pilgrim!

Students: Over the years I have been privileged to introduce over eight hundred highly motivated and interesting individuals to the secrets of the ice world. Each seminar had more than one instance in which the teacher became the student, and many of the techniques in this book originated from these exchanges. Thank you all.

Sponsors: 1 work as a design consultant with some of the top companies in the outdoor industry. Their individual and collective support of my projects keeps me and my family going. Thank you Lafuma (packs), Trango USA (climbing hardware), Marmot (technical outerwear), Terramar (Transport EC2 underwear), Charlet

10 T Acknowledgments

Moser (ice tools), Edelweiss (ropes), La Sportiva (climbing shoes and boots), and Outdoor Research (gloves, hats, gaiters, and accessories).

Greg Lowe: Greg provided the original inspiration for waterfall ice climbing and helped with development of techniques and tools. Thanks for showing the way, bro.

Bird Lew: Who would have guessed that our student for the water ice shoot would turn out to be such a fast study? Although a top rock climber, Bird was a complete novice on waterfall ice, and after two weeks she was doing M7 climbs in Vaill Bird, your deft climbing style is inspirational.

The Mountaineers Books: Donna DeShazo was enthusiastic about the book from the outset and pushed me to complete it in the end. Cindy Bohn worked exceptionally hard to make sense of text and captions in the final layout, and Alice Merrill's artistic efforts are evident throughout the design o( the book. The rest of The Mountaineers editorial, design, production, and promotions staff have also been great to work with. I'd like to thank each of you for your contribution to bringing this project together.

My kids: My seven-year-old daughter, Sonja, and nine-year-old stepson, Hunter, saw very little of me during the photographing and writing of this book, but they accepted the physical and emotional absence quite philosophically, alleviating some of my guilt. 1 promise to make it up to you guys. We will take that two-week camping trip this summer.

My wife and partner: This book is almost as much Teri Ebel's as my own. Being a hopeless computer illiterate (never seem to have time to learn how to operate the damn things), as well as a writer in severe need of an editor, 1 lucked out when I married a wordsmith with excellent computer skills. Ten's input at every stage of conception, photography, writing, and editing ensured that The Mountaineers at least received a workable manuscript, And she couldn't have been a more joyous student for the alpine ice photos. You're the best, Teri!

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