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27-2

a How severe is the injury involved?

Q What's the location of the injured climber? (i.e. less then half the distance of the rope or more then half the distance of the rope)

d| Do you have enough gear to conduct the rescue?

9 Can the other climbing teams in the area assist you in the rescue?

f. How familiar are the climbers with the rescue techniques?

NOTE: The answers to the above questions will determine which method should be used to rescue the climber.

TRANSITION: Now that we have discussed the factors involved when to conduct a rescue, are there any questions? Now we will discuss how to do it.

2 (5 Min) ESCAPING FROM THE SYSTEM . This is a phrase used to describe the technique of releasing one's self from the belay, while ensuring that the climber you are responsible for is safe and secure. The reasons for escaping are varied and too numerous to mention; however, once you have established the reason to escape, you should work logically, safely, and try to keep it as simple as possible. The procedures are as follows:

9 Lock the climber off.

3 Once the belay device is locked off pass a bight through the belay device carabiner.

9 Tie the belay device off around the load rope with two-half hitches.

d| Untie your retraced figure of eight knot and pull the end of the rope out through your harness.

TRANSITION: Now that we discussed how to escape the system, are there any questions? Now let's talk about rescuing an injured lead climber.

3| (20 Min) RESCUE AN INJURED LEAD CLIMBER. When conducting two party climbing, there is a greater chance that the lead climber will suffer injuries from a fall vice the #2 climber who is being top roped. After assessing the situation, a plan must be devised as soon as possible. The following are different methods which could be utilized:

9 Lowering the Injured Climber. The method of lowering will depend upon two factors; how much rope was used and if the injured climber is conscious or not.

BE Less than Half the Rope Distance. If less than half the rope has been used during the climb, it may be feasible to just lower the victim. Normally, the cause of the injury was due to a fall, which seated the protection firmly. If the injured climber is conscious, he will back the lowering protection point up with another piece of protection and equalize it.

ore than Half the Rope Distance. If more than half the rope has been used during the climb and the injured climber is conscious, he will conduct the same actions as above and the following:

MflClean the route on his way down.

¡^^Descended past the half way mark and locate a feasible stance to tie himself off to the rock using an equalized anchor system.

ull some slack up from the bottom and tie it off to a hard point.

^Untie the retrace figure eight from his harness and pull the rope through the lowering point.

)Once the rope has cleared the lowering point, he will attach the end of the rope back into his harness with a retrace figure eight.

)Untie the slack rope from the hard point and have the belayer take in all the slack.

^Taking a bite from his retrace figure eight, he will clip it into the equalized anchor system.

nsuring that the belayer has taken in all the slack and that the brake is applied, he will detach himself from the equalized anchor system.

The belayer will then lower the victim.

b Assistance from other Climbing Teams. Other climbing teams in the area can provide assistance if needed. There are two options for their assistance, which depends upon their location, either on the top or the bottom.

)A climbing team on the bottom can perform the rescue by performing the following actions:

«^Conduct a two party climb up to the victim and establish a hanging belay as described in BELAYING FOR PARTY CLIMBING.

¡J^The leader will pull up all of the rope and tie a figure eight loop in the end of the rope. This loop will be clipped into the victim's donut with a locking carabiner.

The leader will establish a belay to the victim and tie the belay off.

The victim's retrace figure eight can be untied or cut if necessary.

The leader can now untie the belay and lower the victim to the ground.

NOTE: A climbing rope will not be cut unless it is a true emergency and extreme precaution must be taken so that only the victim's rope is cut.

TRANSITION: Are there any questions over rescuing an injured lead climber. In some circumstances you may have to rescue the No. 2. Normally he will be either injured from falling rock or unconscious.

4. (20 Min) RESCUE AN INJURED NO 2. There are several ways to assist an injured No. 2 climber we will cover just a few.

a. Assisted Hoist. The assisted hoist is most frequently used in situations where your second is unable to climb a particular part of a climb or he may have fallen off to one side and is unable to get back onto that climb. It is not necessary for the rescuer to escape from the system to set up the hoist, however in some circumstances it may well be easier to set up and work if you get yourself out of the system, but remember to secure yourself once you are out.

Assisted Hoist Climbing
ASSISTED HOIST

NOTE: This system can only be set up and used if you are within 1/3 of the ropes length of each other.

^®Tie off the belay device. Attach an Autoblock knot on the load rope, then secure it back to the MAC, and slide it down until all the slack is taken out.

NOTE: Make sure that the Autoblock is not too long, no more than 1 foot from the belay device, otherwise, it will slide out of arms reach when loaded.

^^Take a bight in the loose end of the rope and clip a carabiner into it.

^^Lower the bight and carabiner down to victim and tell the victim to clip it into the strong point of their harness, making sure that the rope is not twisted.

^^Untie belay device and gently lower victim's weight onto the autoblock. The victim will pull the center downward moving rope.

oth rescuer and victim pull at the same time, the victim walks up the rock face to assist the hoist. Should either require a rest, you simply lower the victim's weight onto the autoblock.

b Unassisted Hoist. There may be circumstances on a multi pitch climb when you might need to hoist an injured or unconscious victim rather than try to lower them down to a safe stance. If you should be unfortunate enough to be in this type of situation, then a mechanical advantage will save a lot of energy and backache.

^^Three-to-one-Hoi st. One of the simplest of the mechanical advantages to set up, but remember to work logically and safely.

irst tie off your belay device and escape from the system and anchor yourself.

^Attach an autoblock to the loaded rope and secure it back to the MAC, slide it down until slack is taken up.

)Untie belay device and gently release the loaded rope onto autoblock.

^The loaded rope is then secured by retying the belay device.

)Take a short prusik loop and put a French prusik onto the loaded rope as far down as you can reach, clip in a carabiner.

victim is conscious, he can help by walking.
THREE TO ONE HOIST

i )As you pull, the French prusik will come up to meet the autoblock, at this point lower the victims weight onto the autoblock and then slide the French prusik back down the loaded rope as far as possible. This procedure is repeated until the victim is where you require him. If there is enough space you can attach the pulling rope to your harness through your belay device, and use your body weight instead of you arms.

NOTE: This system can be easily upgraded to a 9:1 to enhance leverage. If available, pulleys can be used to prevent unnecessary friction.

TRANSITION: Are there any questions over the rescue of the #2? Saving the victims life is important, but remember to be safe so that you do not become a victim as well.

PRACTICE (CONC)

Students will practice rescuing both the injured No 1 and No 2.

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