Mm

down-valley view toward the hustling Ouray Ice Park. Heidi kicks a vertical ice pillar with her left crampon, her right foot stemmed onto a rock edge. From the road 200 feet below, Steve House and his clients watch. Wirtz talks to herself during the whole lead, provoking Colorado ice guidebook author jack Roberts, one route over, to ask (with a chuckle) what she's saying.

Wirtz finagles a stem rest beneath a rocky roof traverse 011 Tourist Trap (W15 M6), then calms her mind, pre-crux. I can tell, because she's finally quiet. Then, without warning, she pulls her Almighty thing—hooking and torquing rightward through two bodylengths of exposed, slightly overhanging rock and ice. When 1 reach the belay, I am sweaty and out of breath. Heidi's eyes brighten and she cracks a warm, happy smile. You can see that she doesn't want to be anywhere else. W-*

Senior Contributing Editor Chris Weidner has enjoyed all genres of climbing for over 20 years, but Almighty status has thus far eluded bim.

The Heidi Almighty Ticklist

Alpine

• Bad Hair Day (V 5.12-}, Bugaboos, Canada; FA with Lizzy Scully mQui Lomho (IV 5.11+Ai), Aguja San Rafael, Patagonia; FA with Zack Smith

'I'ttfigti (IV 5,11 Alt, Kupol, Siberia; FA with Roxanna Brock

'North Face (IV AI4 M l), Hapless Peak, Alaska

■Losar (VI WI5 2300 feet), Khumbu region, Nepal

¿Bird Brijifi Boulevard (IV \\ I<- M5), Ouray, Colorado; Heidi led every pitch over two ascents in two different years

«Off the Road (IV WI6-), British Columbia, Canada

'Bridaiveil Falls (IV WI5+/6), Telluride, Colorado

¿Stettner's Ledges (III 5.8, winter ascent). Longs Peak, Rocky Mountain

National Park, Colorado; with Vince Anderson

Multi-pitch

•The Nose, El Capitan, Yosemite Valley, California; women's speed record (12 hours 15 minutes}, writh Vera Schulte-Pelkum, 2004 ¿Regular Northwest Face, Half Dome, Yosemite Valley, California; women's speed record (5 hours 19 minutes}, writh Schulte-Pelkum . 2004

• West Face Leaning Tower, Yosemite Valley, California; women's speed record (5 hours 15 minutes}, with Schulte-Pelkum, 2004

*Dar al'Salaam (V 5.13a), Wadi Rum, Jordan; FA with Chris Kalous, Aaron Black, Ren Firth

¿Colorado Welcome Party (IV 5.11+R), onsight, Black Canyon, Colorado Trad Cragging

• 7/v Euictor (5.12c R), Eldorado Canyon, Colorado

■The Wasp (5.12+), Rocky Mountain National Park, Colorado «Fish Crack (5.12b}, onsight, Yosemite Valley, California •Positron (E5 6a), onsight, Gogarth, North Wales 'Sentry Box (5.12a}, onsight, Squamish, Canada

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