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Training for Rock Climbing

Training for Rock Climbing

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LANDER JULY

WYOMING 7-llth climbersfestival.org fountain Sporli

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Adaptation

The excellent, tightly edited (28 minutes) Andy Parkin: A Life In Adaptation (£12 plus shipping, bluehippomedia.com) is a still, meditative portrait that doesn't descend into the usual action sequences and first-person wankery about "the proj." Andy Parkin is an ex-pat Brit who's spent the last 25 years in Chamonix. An alpine badass (Broad Peak alpine style and the Walker Spur solo in winter), he survived an epic accident on the Rothorn in 1984 and thereafter moved more deeply into his art, critically acclaimed sculpture and painting that owes no small debt to mountain architecture, David Fair's film showcases Parkin sculpting two dynamic scrap-metal humanoids at an abandoned téléphérique station high above Cham. There's also some tight, high-det footage of Parkin-his physiology permanently altered by his accident but who nonetheless returned to the upper echelon of alpinism - on the snows of the Alps and at home in Britain, We learn a lot about this singular character in a short time: 'That's what climbing is to me-a philosophy, not a sport," Parkin says in the opening minutes. Truer words about our discipline have not been spoken. —Matt Samet

■ This ain't yo mama's history book: Fallen Giants ($25, yalehooks.com) follows Himalayan mountaineering from the early 20th century up to now in a text-rich academic format.

Manifest Training

Many of us find training too monotonous, even boring. Chiropractor Michael Layton disagrees. Dr. Layton has written, photographed, and self-published a unigue guide to exercise, nutrition, and advanced climbing skills called Climbing Stronger, Faster, Healthier: Beyond the Basics ($24,95, amazon.com). Part textbook, part climbing manifesto, the book devotes much of its 200 pages to training and injury rehabilitation. The tone is candid, as when discussing trekking poles: Get cheap ones because you'll break them," Layton advises. Yet the author's personal suggestions, like ego-baiting a bail-minded partner into sticking it out, should be taken with a grain of salt. Advanced climbing instruction fills the last 60 pages, Layton includes well-tested tips, gear advice, and instruction on skills like rope-soloing, hand drilling, and installing bolt anchors. Even a casual scan reveals something to laugh at or learn from. —Blake Herrington

Espresso Lessons from the Rock Warrior's Way

Physical training for rock climbing, or any sport for that matter, is formulaic; there is, more or less, an eguation to improvement. But perhaps due to its inherent complexity and nuance, mental training has always taken a backseat to physical training in our sport, despite its equal and oft underrated importance. Arno llgner's Espresso Lessons from the Rock Warrior's Way ($19.95, warriorsway.com) takes the complicated fears, emotions, and doubts our mind creates while rock climbing and teaches us how to handle them and climb harder. Taking ideas from the earlier The Rock Warrior's Way, it goes deeper than learning to breathe and how to utilize resting, tapping into the almost spiritual aspects of climbing, while offering practical applications for training the mind. Like pushups for your brain, this book offers easy-to-remember acronyms like BERP: Breathing, Eyes, Relaxing, Posture. If your brain is the only thing keeping you from going for that next hold or attempting that sick line, then Espresso Lessons might have the gentle nudge you need to send. —Julie Ellison

ALSO OUT (for more, visit climping.com/pnntMeyiews)

■ This ain't yo mama's history book: Fallen Giants ($25, yalehooks.com) follows Himalayan mountaineering from the early 20th century up to now in a text-rich academic format.

■ Following the lives of two rock-climbing teens, Jump ($16.99, penguin.com) is a young-adult novel that tells a story of climbing, adventure, and romance, through dual perspectives.

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In 2003, Climbingr, with support from The North Face and Petzl, launched the Anchor Replacement Initiative (ARI) to address the nationwide problem of worn-out and inappropriate fixed hardware at heavily used crags. Using its leadership position within the community and industry, Climbing has stepped up and developed a unique program that provides resources to the climbing community, to create and maintain a safe climbing environment.

Find new hardware at: Bishop's Peak, Boxcar Rocks, Cerro Cabriilo, City of Rocks, Colorado National Monument, Devils Tower, Fisher Towers, Flallrons, Gallatin Canyon, Garden of the Gods, Hyalite Canyon, idyll wild, Indian Creek, Little Cottonwood, Moab, Mocanaqua, Mount Rushmore, New River Gorge, North Conway, Penltente, Pinnacles, Red River Gorge, Red Wing, Rifle, Rurnney, Spearfish, Summersville Lake, Table Mountain, Unaweep, Vail, Vedauwoo...

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9

Lost Cove North Carolina
Eric Hiegl doesn't need no stinkin' bolts on an unnamed 5,7+ at the Little Lost Cove Cliffs in Pisgah National Forest, North Carolina.

ERIC HIEGL

Cleaning up The Dump

"AFTER CUMEiNG AT THE DUMP FOR YEARS, I finally got off my butt and decided to do something about the bolts I was afraid to fall on," says Anchor Replacement Initiative (ARI) volunteer, Eric Hiegl. The 35-year-old Hiegl frequents The Dump, a popular sport crag 30 minutes from Boone, North Carolina. Through his job as Land Protection Director of the Blue Ridge Conservancy, Hiegl helps the public gain access to land and protect farmland for local food production. His job sees him scouting thousands of acres of land in the Southeast, which, he says, has led him to several secret stashes of boulders. (Hiegl admits that he didn't know what bouldering was when he first moved to Boone in 1999, despite the sport's popularity in the area.) Hiegl was a trad climber first, leading at places like Ship Rock and Linville Gorge, also in the Boone area. Starting in 2009, he helped rebolt six routes at The Dump, with the help of the ARI.

How did you get started working with ARI' Although the rusty spinners [at The Dump] provided extra motivation, something needed to be done. I found out about ARI through Climbing and made contact in fall of 2009. Within a month we had the hardware and began replacing bad bolts.

What's most rewarding about doing anchor-replacement work? After climbing in Boone for more than 10 years, I thought it was time to finally give back to the community. Getting soaked to the bone while replacing bad bolts in the rain left me feeling good, because it meant other climbers would be able to trust the hardware. Why is anchor replacement important, especially at The Dump? The Dump is one of a few sport-climbing areas in western North Carolina, so it sees a lot of traffic. Being located 30 minutes from Boone and having a one-minute approach, it's many folks' first outdoor climbing experience, and they don't know a good bolt from a bad bolt. They probably wonder why the bolt spins when they try to clip it. What can others do to help out?

Find the local climbing organization in your area and get involved. That's where you'll find climbers interested in protecting access and maintaining our climbing areas...and they probably know where more climbing areas are than you do.

Visit climbing.com/community/ari for more info on the Anchor Replacement Initiative, C**"

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