Tangled Up And Blue

DAMN IT I KNOW WHAT I'M DOING, BENNETT shouted my partner, Cedar Wright. Uh, OK, Cedar, but you're still kinda tangled up in the never mind, I said. I watched as Cedar-as solid on cracks as the day is long-ran out a sandy 5.10 offwidth In Canyonlands, the rope twisted around his leg. Even as I hoped for the best, I pictured the worst. Fall with the rope wrapped around your leg and it will flip you, bringing you noggin-first toward the rock. I got schooled in this worst-case scenario a decade...

Potential

Burly, brilliant and bold Wild Country's most stylish, comfortable and fully featured models get a strong visual overhaul to stay ahead of the pack. Sharper, with cleaner lines, these are true multi discipline masters for those looking beyond the ordinary. Combining impeccable quality with a precise fit, and using Ziplock buckles throughout, Elites are finished with original, high strength safety features and provide a new benchmark for performance and protection

Bradley Alpinist

Proper Equipment for High Altitude Climbing. Hard to find equipment for ALPINISTS, including ice snow protection, axes, crampons, packs, sleeping bags, accessories, arid bar stool fashion jewelry for climbers. DMM, Wild Things. Valandre, Simond. Gear Lists, Climbers Resources and Certified Guide Directory. WWW.CHESSLERBOOKS.COMr Great new website with 1000s of mountaineering books, videos, posters, collectibles, bargains. (800) 654-8502 1 Catalog PO Bo* 680-CL7, Mahwah. NJ 07430

Greater Versatility Via Smart Design

A SMALL, EFFICIENT, DUAL-BEAM HEADLAMP. from the belay ledge, seeing the anchors moving away, and even the yellow color of the sun-bleached slings. But the rest is gone until I lay below the climb-Whiteman in Rocky Mountain National Park-in the talus. Our brain somehow blanks the short-term memory after heavy trauma. I like to think of it as God's own defense mechanism. Like me, Mike had also landed standing and then crumpled. But unlike me, he was right in front of a small group of onlookers....

Marmot Mountain Works

Www.marmotmountaln.com Info marmotmountaln. com 1 (800) MARMOT-9 (627-6689) (510) 849-0735 1 3049 Adeline St. Berkeley, CA 94703 www.mountaingear.com, i nfo m ge a r.com TF. (800) 829-2009 Fax (509) 325-3030 730 N. RO. Box 1 222295, Carmel, CA 93922 Tech line (831) 620-0911 1 order line (800) 5.10-2-5,14 Fax orders (831) 620-0977 i

Mm

Down-valley view toward the hustling Ouray Ice Park. Heidi kicks a vertical ice pillar with her left crampon, her right foot stemmed onto a rock edge. From the road 200 feet below, Steve House and his clients watch. Wirtz talks to herself during the whole lead, provoking Colorado ice guidebook author jack Roberts, one route over, to ask (with a chuckle) what she's saying. Wirtz finagles a stem rest beneath a rocky roof traverse 011 Tourist Trap (W15 M6), then calms her mind, pre-crux. I can...

Clinics With World Class Climbers

The excellent, tightly edited 28 minutes Andy Parkin A Life In Adaptation 12 plus shipping, bluehippomedia.com is a still, meditative portrait that doesn't descend into the usual action sequences and first-person wankery about the proj. Andy Parkin is an ex-pat Brit who's spent the last 25 years in Chamonix. An alpine badass Broad Peak alpine style and the Walker Spur solo in winter , he survived an epic accident on the Rothorn in 1984 and thereafter moved more deeply into his art, critically...

Boulder Reservoir

Meet The Itif Teotbers la the Busitttt -Omttid M ago tiit a Meet The Itif Teotbers la the Busitttt -Omttid M ago tiit a I THl ii VIN .U KlIi M, PlNr yj lt L 114 Cltmb aipineAsc9nf1.eom 206.378 1 927 I THl ii VIN .U KlIi M, PlNr yj lt L 114 Cltmb aipineAsc9nf1.eom 206.378 1 927 A HIMALAYA, AFRICA, ACONCAGUA expedition with Daniel Mazur, EVEREST Kilimanjaro. Lhakpa-RI, Amadablam, Cho-Oyu, Mustagata, Aconcagua, Lhotse, Treks, 360 570-0715 www.SummitClimb.com, nfo SummiiClimb.com EXPEDITION...

Seneca Rocks Climbing School

Sececa Rocks Climbing Guides

Rt. 1 Main Street, Seneca Rocks, WV 26884 800 COLORADO MOUNTAIN SCHOOL - Courses, climbs, expeditions and indoor training. Colorado's total climbing service located in Boulder and Estes Park. Exclusive guides for Rocky Mountain National Park since 1870. www.totaiclimbing.com or 800 836-4008. ALASKA FISHING JOBS -Earn great money in Alaska's fishing industry. Many employers offer free room, board, and transportation. No experience necessary. 888 424-7110 www.AlaskaJobFinder.com BROTHER SISTER...

Classic Climbs

Bishop's Terrace I 5,8 , Church Bowl, Yosemite Valley, California, A bri liant splitter experience in the granite crucible 70 TECH TIPS Trad Munter madness, from beginner to advanced Rope Management Proper rope management for safer climbing 75 MILEAGE Explore piles of trad, sport, and bouldering on California's dreamy Central Coast 78 REVIEWS Adaptation, the life of Andy Parkin Climbing Stronger, Faster, Healthier Beyond the Basics Arno llgner is back with Espresso Lessons from the Rock...

Years Of American Rock

Since May 1970, Climbing has covered the vertical world. Here, a look back with a few twists at four decades of ascents, climbers, and ideas that shaped the flow of American rock climbing and made it what it is today. By the Editors THIS PAGE Sarah Hueniken floats Rubicon 5.10d under a mondo moon, Joshua Tree National Park, California PHOTO Andrew Burr Heidi Wirtz has always been bold on challenging rock. But after an eye-opening expedition to Pakistan, she's taking on a new challenge funding...

Northern Mountain Supply

Majka Burhardt

Ph 707 445-1711 TF 800 878-3583 Fax 707 445-0781 125 W, Fifth St., Eureka, CA 95501 www.northernllghtstrading.com 1716 West Babcock Bozeman, MT 59715 866 586-2225 406 586-2225 www.RockCreek.com lnfo rockcreekcom TF 888 707-6708 Ph 423 266-8200 100 Tremont Majka Burhardt ascends Stairway to Heaven, San .luan Mnuntains, Colorado Removable dual compartment top pochet with spindrift collar Three position Hlip bufigee tool tie-offs Rope compression Removable Three point haul bwy'sit 1

Revisiting Buoux

FRANCE, LIMESTONE, POCKETS TIME FOR A SECOND LOOK colin goodey and the great slate debate adam henry adam ondra state parks closure rope technique munter madness california central coast cragging BISHOP'S TERRACE life and death on WERK SUPP guest editor jeff achey and more PRINTED ON 100 RECYCLED PAPER A CARBON-NEUTRAL MAGAZINE issue No. 1 of Climbing, Yep, we burst out of the gate in full black-and-white, turning heads with this sweet butt shot taken at Garden of the Gods, Colorado Props to...

Leading Since

Via Ferrata Otztal

got his start climbing and reading Climbing when CD EE AlOT O fi he was just 11 years old, at a gym in California. He's since ntt'OULUlO I J r become renowned for his preternatural ability to keep his Ol IK ID CD POni I n fC S C00' on su per-committing solos, such as that of Moonlight OLIIVlDtn, DUUVx LUy tn, Buttress 5.12d, 9 pitches , in Zion, and the Regular North-plQ Q m ft Qjp west Face of Half Dome VI 5,12a, 23 pitches , in Yosemite. Daniel Woods holding the crux swing on The Game,...

Siie Must Appreciate

The boulders and talus lay tiny and surreal, like grains of sand almost 2,000 feet below. Above, stacked, fang-like blocks guarded a roof that looked super gnarly, Wirtz breathed cold, alpine air, with an odor distinctly granite then shimmied, legs aquiver. Her blue eyes turned upward. She flashed a toothy smile and, finding her roots, committed to the unknown. Wirtz fired the 5.11 offwidth through a roof one of the route's most memorable pitches. On pitch 1 1, a long, smooth, 5.1 1 dihedral...

Mountaingearcomdimbing

Petzl Sama The Masochist Society

President and founder, The Masochist Society If you climb because you love pain, this isn't the harness for you. The Petzl SAMA failed to itch, chafe, scrape or cause pain in our intensive testing sessions. The harness incorporates breathable mesh in both the waist belt and leg loops inside a lightweight frame, taking all the fun and pain out of climbing. The sweat and raw skin that we've come to rely on from snug-fitting harnesses has all but vanished, making this gear utterly useless to pain...

S Sporting Life

BY MAI I SAM I LLUSTRA1 ON BY MIKl TEA A day in the life of America's most heinous cragging couple Editor's Note To stay current with the climbing populace, we occasionally have field reporters observe and report on climber behavior. Recently we sent an intrepid contributing editor CE to Shelf Road, a popular limestone sport destination in southern Colorado, Although he went missing under suspicious circumstances, we were able to recover his notes and tape recorder some weeks later, scattered...

Cliff Drive Kansas City Climbing Guide

Leonard Coyne Black Canyon

WITH A BENT TOWARDS STEEP, TECHNICAL CLIMBS, THE VAPOR V'S BI-TENSION RAN DING AND DYNAMIC FIT WILL DELIVER MAXIMUM PERFORMANCE TIME AND TIME AGAIN. Heidi Wirtz jamming 5.11 with jammed-knot pro, Adrspach-Teplice spires, Czech Republic. PHOTO Topher Donahue Heidi Wirtz jamming 5.11 with jammed-knot pro, Adrspach-Teplice spires, Czech Republic. PHOTO Topher Donahue LEFT A climber circumnavigates a hanging block wedged in The Great Chimney 55 , Otter Cliffs, Acadia National Park, Maine. PHOTO...

Years Of Climbing Magazine

Welcome to the 40th Anniversary issue of Climbing-woo hoo In a nostalgic mood, I rifled through some of my oldest files, until behind some battered wall topos and faded photographs, I unearthed my first magazine correspondence, circa 1980. No email here these letters were hand-typed-as in, on a typewriter- with xxx-ed typos, and Inked-in spelling corrections, and signed in pen. One was from Mountain magazine, out of the U.K., which was considered the most serious climbing-news source of the...

Story And Photos By Tom Slater

Bishop Peak San Luis Obispo

Ken Klis receives a very nice Edgeucation 5.11c , high up on Bishop Peak, San Luis Obispo. Ken Klis receives a very nice Edgeucation 5.11c , high up on Bishop Peak, San Luis Obispo. Cragging along California's Central Coast TO MOST, CALIFORNIA'S CENTRAL COAST is a refreshing kaleidoscope of green vineyards, twisted oaks, and round, open hills between Los Angeles and San Francisco. But to climbers, it's a secret hideaway with dozens of crags. The Central Coast has some of the state's best, most...

Stone Into Wood

Julie Ellison Climber

A Washington climber's hand-carved rock panoramas Through a process called intarsia, Sherri Lewis creates one-of a-kind wood murals, like this one called Red Rocks Sunset, to commemorate memorable climbing trips. Through a process called intarsia, Sherri Lewis creates one-of a-kind wood murals, like this one called Red Rocks Sunset, to commemorate memorable climbing trips. NOTHING COMMEMORATES an unforgettable climbing trip like a hard drive full of digital photos, but let's be real how many of...

Mammoth Mountaineering Supply

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Marc Le Menestrel Climbing

Antoine Menestrel

Revisiting France's Crag of the 1980s Once upon a time in Europe and perhaps this is still true today the most gifted climbers battled for one crown to climb a route that no other couid repeat. In that age of dreaming, beginning in the early 1980s, the rules that had defined the sport were cast happily and carelessly to the wind. No longer was a climber required to lower after each failed attempt, or to only install fixed protection from the ground up. French climbers dreamt of the impossible...

Climbing Fiction

The climbing world is rich with plot, action, and characters, often elucidated in the niche genre of climbing fiction. It's a niche where few succeed, maybe because, as the author Jeff Long put it, Where does fiction belong in a sport that almost defies fiction SNH B BUM Hilt Nil I I OF MB SHI If IOn Christmas Eve 1977, a Lockheed Lodestar plane crashed into a lake in Yosemite National Park's backcountry. When authorities located the crash site, the plane and its cargo of marijuana bales were...

To Fight Breast Ganger

Yosemite Classic Climb

TO SUCCEED IN THE STRUGGLE AGAINST BREAST CANCER WE NEED YOUR HELP AND STAMINA. JOIN A CLIMB TO FIGHT BREAST CANCER TEAM AND HELP RAISE FUNDS TO SUPPORT OUR MISSION TO FIND A CURE. FOR DETAILS AND REGISTRATION VISIT FHCRC.ORG CLIMB Proceeds benefit breast cancer research at Fred Hutchinson Cancer Research Center. Gimte on Baker, Derail Elbrus, Kilimanjaro, Rainier and the Volcanoes of Mexico are guided by Alpine Ascents International. Climbs on Baker are conducted under special use permit...

Contributors

Topher Donahue, Craig DeMartino, Tom Slater, and Beth Wald 12 EDITORIAL Forty years of Climbing Magazine 14 LETTERS 18 JUST OUT Celebrate the thaw with sweet new schwag 20 HOT FLASHES Daniel Woods gives us the lowdown on America's first V16 more 22 THE HAULBAG A hairball belay sesh on the Bachar-Yerian a Washington artist turns rocky vistas into wooden works Overheard more 24 OFF THE WALL Colin Goodey and the great slate debate 28 TEN THINGS Daddy Loves You A day in the life of America's most...

Colin Goodey

COLIN GOODEY, 74, a native of Penmaenmawr, in North Wales, has climbed for six decades. Untti now, he never really made headlines, though in the 1950s Goodey pioneered the limestone on the Great Orme, in Llandudno. He also clocked a few notable first ascents in the 1960s, such as Great Wall E3 5C , at Craig y Forwen, and Vulcan E2 5C , at Tremadoc. Today, in North Wales' Snowdonia mountains, Goodey has found fame and infamy in equal parts due to his bolting practices. He's added a host of...